Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Unfortunately, I had a front end accident with my S15. Car is a write off.

It is blue (TV3 in colour), and had 103,xxx kms.

So I am wrecking the car. Here are the parts that I have for sale. If the part you are looking for isn't listed, then it isn't for sale.

Prices are firm, however if you buy several things then we can work something out.

If you don't have the money, don't waste my time. I will NOT be holding any items under any circumstances.

Buyer pays postage.

PM me.

Here goes:

Engine:

S15 SR20DET Engine with loom and standard ECU $3000

- Only ever serviced with Royal Purple XTR racing 10w40 oil every 5,000kms

Includes the following parts:

- Brian Crower Step 2 Cams – Int & exh: 264 duration, 12.06mm lift (3,000kms old)

- Brian Crower Valve Springs (3,000kms old)

- GReddy RAS (3,000kms old)

- Tomei Exhaust Cam Gear (3,000kms old)

One thing, the VTC unit is on its' way out however it still works.

Does not come with turbo or injectors.

ARC Core $400

- Few bent fins

- spray painted matte black for stealth

- was making 248rwkw with this core

Greddy Profec B Spec 2 $300

- in as new condition

- Comes with all wires, hoses etc.

- 2 months old

Stainless Steel intake pipe $180

- suit low mount stock position T28 turbos

Drivetrain:

- S15 Helical Diff in R200 housing with 6 bolt half shafts $200

Suspension/Handling:

- Standard S15 swaybars (front and rear) $50

Brakes:

- 5 Stud conversion with S15 standard brakes setup $700

Including:

- Front and rear calipers

- Front and rear rotors

- Front and rear pads

- Front hubs

- Front and rear knuckles

Rear rotors need to be machined, otherwise they're all good.

Aesthetics/Exterior:

- Nismo Side skirts $250

- TV3 Blue

- Scratches underneath due to lowness

- no cracks

- Plastic, OEM factory option

- JDM S15 tail lights $150

- JDM S15 side mirrors with switch $150

- JDM S15 climate control $120

Interior:

- Factory Odometer with Carbon Fibre Dash with Black rings (103,xxxkms) $100

- S15 front and rear seats $500

- JDM A pillar with boost gauge and sensor $130

- S15 Rear pockets $70 for the pair

- S15 Carpet $120

- S15 boot trim $50

- S15 Upper dash half $200

- S15 Lower dash $150

- S15 Door cards $150 pair (driver and passenger sides)

Last but not least

S15 Rolling shell $1800

- has everything but what is listed above

- front end damage

- PM me for pics

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338557-wrecking-s15/
Share on other sites

Hi can you please PM me your contact number or post a contact/email address and state here?

Or SMS me 0423 850 988

I can't PM until I have 10 posts (which I won't really make here, silvia owner)

I'm keen on the climate control if it includes everything needed to put it in an ADM car. There's a whole bunch of little sensors, along with the plugs/looms, and maybe a motor or two that control the air intakes.

I'm hoping you know what is needed, but if not I can find out and let you know.

Cheers

Edited by uditha01
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338557-wrecking-s15/#findComment-5473289
Share on other sites

location?

Melbourne.

Hi can you please PM me your contact number or post a contact/email address and state here?

Or SMS me 0423 850 988

I can't PM until I have 10 posts (which I won't really make here, silvia owner)

I'm keen on the climate control if it includes everything needed to put it in an ADM car. There's a whole bunch of little sensors, along with the plugs/looms, and maybe a motor or two that control the air intakes.

I'm hoping you know what is needed, but if not I can find out and let you know.

Cheers

I have the unit itself out, however I still haven't gotten around to de-looming the car and removing all the plugs, sensors etc. I should be done by tomorrow, if not by the weekend. Either way, I'll let you know.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338557-wrecking-s15/#findComment-5473925
Share on other sites

aye mate still after those parts and how much u can post in WA postcode 6149 mate need them asap thx

Check your inbox

got any injectors at a good price? thanx

Sorry mate sold already.

Just what's listed in the first post.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338557-wrecking-s15/#findComment-5474495
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...