Jump to content
SAU Community

A31 Rb20 Side Cooler

VRdrift

By VRdrift,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mr Eps Grand Master

Mr Eps

Posted
Posted

to OP. cefiro genuine piping fits best. anything else will need slight modification. if you're doing de plus T..

Trust me from experience. Get an r34 smic. Don't sleep eat or piss until you get one. Don't waste time with a31 smic not worth it.

De+t setups run best with r34. It's big but small enough to retain boost response. And to all naysayers. It's plug and play with a31 piping.

VRdrift Collaborator

VRdrift

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Richard, get a core. ive got lots of s13/r32 piping we can make it work dude? if not we can weld them up????

cheers for the replies guys, ive found a cooler but havent bought it yet, if you've got piping and connectors, oooh yea i want them

can we do deals on sunday?

VRdrift Collaborator

VRdrift

Posted
  • Author
Posted
R32 pipes need to be cut down a bit.

I've got a Cefiro SMIC, brackets and pipes which I don't need if I go ahead with buying a halfcut (either tomorrow or Monday).

We can make a deeeaaal yeah ?

Dammit why do you have to be in Perth right now,

RB25DETC33 Community Regular

RB25DETC33

Posted
Posted

from memory R32 SMIC piping dont fit, I was chasing up the piping at one stae and thought to go R32 but the holes through the chassis were in a

O not a O configuration, the piping was quite different.

O O

You'll have a better chance with R33 piping so long as you have the turbo to cooler pipe for the 20 as the 20 turbo has a smaller outlet.

toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted
cheers for the info, I got a R32 one and pipes and they seemed to fit up ok, I didn't want a FMIC I will if I upgrade the hairdryer

the reason it would be a good idea (or most people do) get a larger intercooler is because the factory intercooler is very small and suffers from heat soak really bad (it's more like a interwarmer , theres nothing cool going through there after a 20 min drive , especially through summer) which is why people were suggesting to buy a fmic , even a small one :( . try his: get some vacuum line and re route the back window squirter line to the intercooler with a garden spray squirter at the end of it (aim it to spray over the core as much as possible) , next hot day after driving it wherever and getting it up to temp for a good 20 min , hit the sqirter button and see/feel the difference it makes :)

VRdrift Collaborator

VRdrift

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know it makes a huge difference, I had a doozy on my old RB25 VL commohore, the fmic will find its way onto mine soon, I just needed the car back on the road, its a wonder the humble RB20det, I remember when they used to be the fastest thing ever 10 years back, not so much now, but its better than the DE it had, god im glad thats gone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...