Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to OP. cefiro genuine piping fits best. anything else will need slight modification. if you're doing de plus T..

Trust me from experience. Get an r34 smic. Don't sleep eat or piss until you get one. Don't waste time with a31 smic not worth it.

De+t setups run best with r34. It's big but small enough to retain boost response. And to all naysayers. It's plug and play with a31 piping.

Richard, get a core. ive got lots of s13/r32 piping we can make it work dude? if not we can weld them up????

cheers for the replies guys, ive found a cooler but havent bought it yet, if you've got piping and connectors, oooh yea i want them

can we do deals on sunday?

R32 pipes need to be cut down a bit.

I've got a Cefiro SMIC, brackets and pipes which I don't need if I go ahead with buying a halfcut (either tomorrow or Monday).

We can make a deeeaaal yeah ?

Dammit why do you have to be in Perth right now,

from memory R32 SMIC piping dont fit, I was chasing up the piping at one stae and thought to go R32 but the holes through the chassis were in a

O not a O configuration, the piping was quite different.

O O

You'll have a better chance with R33 piping so long as you have the turbo to cooler pipe for the 20 as the 20 turbo has a smaller outlet.

cheers for the info, I got a R32 one and pipes and they seemed to fit up ok, I didn't want a FMIC I will if I upgrade the hairdryer

the reason it would be a good idea (or most people do) get a larger intercooler is because the factory intercooler is very small and suffers from heat soak really bad (it's more like a interwarmer , theres nothing cool going through there after a 20 min drive , especially through summer) which is why people were suggesting to buy a fmic , even a small one :( . try his: get some vacuum line and re route the back window squirter line to the intercooler with a garden spray squirter at the end of it (aim it to spray over the core as much as possible) , next hot day after driving it wherever and getting it up to temp for a good 20 min , hit the sqirter button and see/feel the difference it makes :)

I know it makes a huge difference, I had a doozy on my old RB25 VL commohore, the fmic will find its way onto mine soon, I just needed the car back on the road, its a wonder the humble RB20det, I remember when they used to be the fastest thing ever 10 years back, not so much now, but its better than the DE it had, god im glad thats gone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...