2000 Stagea Rs-four S Manual Gearbox Woes

[Tommy G]

I have a 2000 model, manual 4WD Stagea with 105,000kms. I recently had the car serviced, including full belts, fluids and filter, water pump, transmission lube etc at 100,000kms.

I have been noticing recently that when shifting to or from second gear that the gearbox emits a 'buzzing' sound (a bit like a blow-fly buzz type noise) and you can feel a vibration through the stick. I have been told that this is a worn input shaft bearing. My question is, should I have the problem looked at ASAP, or can it wait until the 110,000km service?

Additionally, the main belt squeals whenever the cold engine is started. They were not original Nissan belts that were installed. I have tightened the belt several times, but it always seems to become loose after a week or so and squeal again. Any advice for how to rectify this?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Bronx]

if its a input shaft bearing, id get it looked at soonish , not 100% urgent, but its always better to get it done sooner than later.

in my old audi i drove with a broken bearing for about 8000km untill my car was totalled, was working fine, just dont know how the wear and tear inside the box was.

what brand did you use for your timing belt???? i know gates belts usually have a squeal. but if its a tightening problem, i dont quite know, havent changed a timing belt on a nissan before

thats all i got in regards to information

[SMOKEYV35]

a buzzing sound with feedback through the stick goin from 1 to 2 sounds like it could be worn synchros - pretty common as when people are thrashing the car, they crash through the synchros from 1st to 2nd trying to 'live their life a 1/4 mile at a time'.

if that is what it is, it won't need to be replaced until it just becomes a problem - which it will, and it will get worse.

best to get it diagnosed by a transmission place, they'll be able to take it round the block and tell you straight away.

if it is this, you can try putting some redline shockproof through the box, and i've also had success in the past with a nulon additive that comes in a white tube (name escapes me). if you want to try protect it even more, double clutch it when you can be bothered on up shifts and down shifts through 1 and 2, it slows the box down enough to not have to use the synchros.

[pipster11]

^^ nulon g70 or nulon g90

good stuff, helped my shifting when cold (tasmania + short shifter = hard shifts when cold)

with the belt squeel, grab some belt grip spray from supercheap etc, helped the squeel on my 32 and 31

[chef_stagea]

Pipster this is a stag not a 31

tighten the belts accordingly the proper way, bandaid vs opperation....

^^ nulon g70 or nulon g90

good stuff, helped my shifting when cold (tasmania + short shifter = hard shifts when cold)

with the belt squeel, grab some belt grip spray from supercheap etc, helped the squeel on my 32 and 31

[pipster11]

true, but the surface of the pulleys may have become polished due to slip so overtightening them could cause damage to the belts and also to what the belts are running around

to the op, are you tightening up the lock nut after re-tensioning the belts?

[chef_stagea]

true, but the surface of the pulleys may have become polished due to slip so overtightening them could cause damage to the belts and also to what the belts are running around

to the op, are you tightening up the lock nut after re-tensioning the belts?

by the sounds of it hes not doing it him self...

[Tommy G]

true, but the surface of the pulleys may have become polished due to slip so overtightening them could cause damage to the belts and also to what the belts are running around

to the op, are you tightening up the lock nut after re-tensioning the belts?

Yes, made sure I secured the lock nut after each half-turn tighten. I didn't want to do it up too tightly, so used smaller increments. I think the belt is probably just a cheapy - I might try and source a new Nissan model if the spray doesn't work. Thanks for the info everyone.