Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys i have a 1993 r33 manual turbo blabla, it had been sitting in my garage for about 6-7 months i recently got rid of my other car so i decided i wud fire this baby back up, i re-charged the battery, put new rims/wheels on it, put the intercooler piping back on, cleaned it up and then started her up you beauty!!! was all doin fine rev'd nicely and all that stuff, then one day i decided id take it to pump up the tyres i take it for a drive. Straight away i realise the car is going incredibly slow but was driving fine, pretty much my v4 pulsar could have beaten it which is rather embarrasing... my mate was like maybe your not giving it enough revs i turned a corner and took it to past 6 then shifted and the car just locked up and stalled, i re-start the engine and kept rolling 30 metres where the car died again i go to start the car and it has mass revving problems going from about 200-1400, the lights dim as if the cars gonna stall each time i try to accelerate but it just gets all these weird adjustments in revs, i could not move the car, i got it towed back to my house by my mate where there i had a closer look it was shooting that much black smoke out of the exhaust i swear you would be dead covered in it in about 3 seconds. ALSO on closer inspection i looked at the engine bay there seems to be no leaks or funny sounds or anything except the whole f*kin engine in the bay was bloody shaking more violently than my mums old washing machine!! i immediately turned the car off not wanting to turn it back on....

i looked at similar posts but my only querys would be that its the AFM, or could it be the fact that since the car was sitting for ages the 98 octance fuel i put in it went bad and has clogged the fuel injectors+ throttle body? also my biggest question... why the hell is my engine shaking? IMMEDIATE HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339292-r33-dying-need-some-help/
Share on other sites

you should really put some more time into putting that out into paragraphs mate, very hard to read!

check that your airflow meter is still plugged in and operating correctly

also check that there are no intercooler pipes that have popped off. also check that there are no cracks anywhere in the intercooler pipes and intake piping etc

hi guys i have a 1993 r33 manual turbo blabla, it had been sitting in my garage for about 6-7 months i recently got rid of my other car so i decided i wud fire this baby back up, i re-charged the battery, put new rims/wheels on it, put the intercooler piping back on, cleaned it up and then started her up you beauty!!! was all doin fine rev'd nicely and all that stuff, then one day i decided id take it to pump up the tyres i take it for a drive. Straight away i realise the car is going incredibly slow but was driving fine, pretty much my v4 pulsar could have beaten it which is rather embarrasing... my mate was like maybe your not giving it enough revs i turned a corner and took it to past 6 then shifted and the car just locked up and stalled, i re-start the engine and kept rolling 30 metres where the car died again i go to start the car and it has mass revving problems going from about 200-1400, the lights dim as if the cars gonna stall each time i try to accelerate but it just gets all these weird adjustments in revs, i could not move the car, i got it towed back to my house by my mate where there i had a closer look it was shooting that much black smoke out of the exhaust i swear you would be dead covered in it in about 3 seconds. ALSO on closer inspection i looked at the engine bay there seems to be no leaks or funny sounds or anything except the whole f*kin engine in the bay was bloody shaking more violently than my mums old washing machine!! i immediately turned the car off not wanting to turn it back on....

i looked at similar posts but my only querys would be that its the AFM, or could it be the fact that since the car was sitting for ages the 98 octance fuel i put in it went bad and has clogged the fuel injectors+ throttle body? also my biggest question... why the hell is my engine shaking? IMMEDIATE HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

thanks.

There is your answer. You didn't put a pipe back on properly and it has most likely blown off.

This explains it wanting to stall, this explains the fuel being dumped out the exhaust, the fact it woudn't accelerate etc

From a guess it will be on the intake side where it goes to the 90 degree join through the passenger side hole in the engine bay. Common place for it to blow off and quite hard to notice.

Edited by PM-R33

second update: i guess it dosent matter but just figured for your own interest none of you were on the money, it really was simply just shit fuel, changed it out put a new filter plus hoses and the car works perfectly. but thanks for your inputs

second update: i guess it dosent matter but just figured for your own interest none of you were on the money, it really was simply just shit fuel, changed it out put a new filter plus hoses and the car works perfectly. but thanks for your inputs

lol typical, its usually always one of the basic things a engine requires which everyone seems to overlook.

lol typical, its usually always one of the basic things a engine requires which everyone seems to overlook.

yeh thats tru man but its good cause then you look at all possible aspects so like i said, i say cheers =), yeh i knowww hey i duno why the fuel was bad does 98 octance being so pure go shit quicker? ehhh it was hell nice pooring like $80 on the sand =( haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...