Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had to put on my spare wheel today due to a dredded puncture. I think its the wrong size, i mean i know its a different rolling diameter to my other tyres because its throwing my torque gauge on permenently which cant be good, and its also making my car shudder so much which could be due to being off balance.

Anyway my tyres on the car are 225/50 R17's

My space saver reads T125/90 D16

Now i presume that its basicly the same measurement system the 125 means width the 90 means profile and the D16 is the size of the diamter of the rim

Now would i be right in saying that because the rim dia is smaller by an inch my profile should be bigger by an inch making that a profile size of 60 not 90.

just need confirmation of what size my space saver my car should have whit my tyres?

Thanks

Stu

Edit: Topics merged by Mods...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339303-help-anyone-someone/
Share on other sites

the 50 and 90 are a % of tyre width

See here - it is called aspect ratio

http://www.toyo.com.au/tech_info17.htm

So how do i find out what size my spare should be so its the same rolling diameter as my other wheels

I'm pretty sure space saver tires are not available in Aus so try not to wear it out if you can help it. When I get a puncture I get my wife to bring me a whole set of rims/tires to drive home on. I know that someone is going to come in and say that they are available but I have been to many tire places and no one imports them anymore. I can't see this differing from state to state.

So how do i find out what size my spare should be so its the same rolling diameter as my other wheels

I did a comparison between my stock 17inch alloys and my space saver today and theres 30mm difference which explains alot why my torque gauge if going of its nut, not good for the system. Maybe it might be worth me seeing if i can get on off a falcon or something that has 17inch rims and would have a 17inch space saver. otherwise im stuffed if i get a puncture anywhere.

I just factor in a tow if I get a punture haha, I like the idea of a spare from a lager car hhhmmm maybe ford wreckers? Also is your space saver on the front or the back? I think it would cause less of an issue on the front though I have never tried it.

Edited by horrace
I just factor in a tow if I get a punture haha, I like the idea of a spare from a lager car hhhmmm maybe ford wreckers? Also is your space saver on the front or the back? I think it would cause less of an issue on the front though I have never tried it.

yeah but it would be a pain in the but getting towed if i get a puncture, i like to be able to get these situations sorted myself but if i cant get a spare sorted out i might have to enquire about getting a racv membership cause i know they give you free tow if your car breaks down.

As for the ford wrecker im not sure even if the falcons have space savers, im pretty sure they do but not 100% and i bet you if i find one that it doesnt have the correct size tyre on it. So that leads me to trying to source a tyre which could be a mission in itself as when i got my tyre back from the tyre joint today i asked about getting a space saver and they said you cant buy them, go see the car manufacturer.

I imagine that the tyre being on the front would be less of an issue also being that the front diff doesnt actually engauge unless your back wheels start to brake traction. Not sure about that though cause they do require a 4wd dyno and when you have them on the dyno all the wheels spin.

Can u check what size ur space saver spare tyre is cause mine is the wrong size and im wondering if they are all the same, cause if they are nissan sux. Its a pain in tha arse.

Edited by sturb25
its only a temporary tyre to get you out of trouble....get to a tyre shop for a proper solution

I realise that and its fixed, but i dont alot of driving around Australia and i dont want to get stuck somewhere where i cant use my spare. The only solution a tyre shop can give me is to buy another full size wheel which isnt really an option as i will lose the room that i need in the back of my car, hense the posts to try and get this sorted.

OK so my space saver is a E-08A T125 / 90 D16

hope that helps

And I hope I never have to use it, it looks to small to go on my mountain bike let alone a awd wagon

yeah same as mine mate, i had issues with using mine the other day hense why im asking. f**kn nissan, hopeless. The least they could do is make a space saver that works and wont cause damage to your car. They have thought of everything else when designing the stag.

I booked my trip at the end of the year so we will have to catch up.......

Spare in a bottle?? I know it's not the ideal solution, but at least it will keep the rolling diameter consistent: a new tyre has to be cheaper than repairing a fried ATTESA system....

Spare in a bottle? what do u mean? id rather walk home and pay for a tow truck than use my spare.

The aerosol sealant that you find at autobarn/supercheap, etc: seals and inflates a puntured tyre, but the repaired tyre is pretty much a throwaway... Pretty sure some manufacturers were supplying it instead of a spare tyre for a while...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...