Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my quote today from AVO which was OMFG. guess i'll have to do some bits myself to keep the cost down. just wondering will i be able to put a set of GTT injectors in without changing ecu, is it just a plug and play job? and same goes to the fuel pump,? Also do i have to change the afm to a gtt one or are they the same. as no one mentioned anything about the afm so i assume they dont need to be changed?

dude, this is going to go pear shaped.

Got my quote today from AVO which was OMFG. guess i'll have to do some bits myself to keep the cost down. just wondering will i be able to put a set of GTT injectors in without changing ecu, is it just a plug and play job? and same goes to the fuel pump,? Also do i have to change the afm to a gtt one or are they the same. as no one mentioned anything about the afm so i assume they dont need to be changed?

yeah i think it is best to simply sell your car and buy one already turbo'd. you will come out a few thousand dollars better off. NA skylines sell for about the same as a turbo version, so you aren't really going to lose money on the car.

now i know that before you said you didn't want to do it for personal reasons, but unless you have a compulsion so spend money that you don't need to do, then buying the factory turbo car is going to be the best and cheapest idea. hell with the money you save you could pay to have the car resprayed the same colour as your current car.

Got my quote today from AVO which was OMFG. guess i'll have to do some bits myself to keep the cost down. just wondering will i be able to put a set of GTT injectors in without changing ecu, is it just a plug and play job? and same goes to the fuel pump,? Also do i have to change the afm to a gtt one or are they the same. as no one mentioned anything about the afm so i assume they dont need to be changed?

Ive only read the first post, this one in the quote and BezerkR32's and he couldn't have said it better.

I can tell this because you can't just drop in turbo injectors, among other things, they spray more then what your ecu understands for an n/a engine, how will the ecu cope?

You need to get any second hand set of injectors spray and flow tested to make sure they are spraying consistently, you need an ecu that can properly control how much fuel to spray vs air and rpms.....

You need a new afm because your n/a one wont be able to read how much air the car is sucking in... etc. etc.... get my drift?

If you don't have the money to do it properly, either wait, or sell the car and get a turbo.

Things that you can do yourself if your a little bit handy to keep the costs down:

-Locate all the parts for them so they don't have to stuff around

-Install a side or FMIC and piping

-Install a boost gauge?

Alternatively, you could do more of the labor at home WITHOUT turning the key and then get a tilt tray to take it to the tuners to do the tuning there. I have done this numerous times before and its saved me thousands over the years.

Ive only read the first post, this one in the quote and BezerkR32's and he couldn't have said it better.

I can tell this because you can't just drop in turbo injectors, among other things, they spray more then what your ecu understands for an n/a engine, how will the ecu cope?

You need to get any second hand set of injectors spray and flow tested to make sure they are spraying consistently, you need an ecu that can properly control how much fuel to spray vs air and rpms.....

You need a new afm because your n/a one wont be able to read how much air the car is sucking in... etc. etc.... get my drift?

If you don't have the money to do it properly, either wait, or sell the car and get a turbo.

Things that you can do yourself if your a little bit handy to keep the costs down:

-Locate all the parts for them so they don't have to stuff around

-Install a side or FMIC and piping

-Install a boost gauge?

Alternatively, you could do more of the labor at home WITHOUT turning the key and then get a tilt tray to take it to the tuners to do the tuning there. I have done this numerous times before and its saved me thousands over the years.

WYTSKY, i see you have used Power FC for your NA+T conversion, did you had any trouble with the VCT using Power FC? And which workshop did you use?

WYTSKY, i see you have used Power FC for your NA+T conversion, did you had any trouble with the VCT using Power FC? And which workshop did you use?

Its fine to see you read my sig, but did you read my previous post carefully? VCT and powerfc's should be the last concern of yours at this point.

To answer you question, I honestly don't think so, as I said, I do 80-90% of the mechanic work myself and let my tuner do the fiddly tuning and he hasent ever said there are any issues.

I use Dr. Drift (Sam)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...