Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers guys, it started at 15k and came down, so maybe just wants to off load it quickly but it is in Bankstown....

probably some dodgy lebo owns it, thats been limiter bashed millions of times, and RB26's are glass engines haha.

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

1991 model not the pick of the 26 engines, due to short oil pump drive.

Those KM's aren't genuine, but then 95% of imports aren't.

The ATTESSA Clutches will be hurting at the moment as the tyres have different rolling diameters, i'd be pulling the 4wd fuse to drive it back, but then i'l be steering well wide of this car anyway.

I suspect that it's had other mods that have been taken off as the AFM wiring has been hacked at some point, and the inter cooler piping looks to be made up of bits and pieces.

It's missing the cam belt cover but no adjustable gears???

I'll put money on the fact that this example will cost you 25K before you get it running like a GTR that you would pay 20K for.

IF this has receipts it's a much better buy;

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=1230FDE3BD56

Even this one with receipts (but it's in WA);

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=1230FDE3BD56

Edited by D_Stirls

dont buy it!

i bought a car off a lebo for cheap. it had a whole heap of mods on it, looked good with C-West bodykit etc.

aftermarket chrome turbo, front mount, power fc, full sound system, 3in exhaust.

it was a 99 WRX, i got it for $14k back 5yrs ago

but i found that the exhaust wasnt full 3in, it had some parts which were 3in, some 2.5, some stock!

the ecu wasnt even tuned properly for the car, and the motor was blown! it only made 110kw

i put so much money into getting it right with a full 2.5sti block.

only to be defected, and then find the best part!

underneath the car you could see the shonky welds from a major crash, and there was a hole left in the floor where they didnt match the half cut up properly. it would've cost heaps to get it rewelded and approved so i just sold it as a wreck to someone interstate who wanted to use it as a track car, because it pushed out 215awkw and was punchy as!

lesson learnt about imports which seem too cheap to be true!

if it is lower than the rest of the market, there is usually a damn good reason why, not just. "i'm moving interstate"

pfft everybody uses that one!

just like "genuine 87,000kms lady owner"

Yeah as Dale said, having different rolling diameters on the tyres is a big no no for GTR's.

Edit: that sounds like a story I heard of a guy buying a 270z and crashed it and the cops found it was 2 cars welded together at the chassis lol.

Edited by CRoNic...

I was just having a look on car sales before there's a few nice 32 gtr's in sa for sale, personal preference for import cars like that is to buy in the same state specially this state, trying to get things over regency is a major pita

Thanks guys,

You all have saved me what would of been an expensive lesson no doubt. Patience is needed and yes he is a Lebo as well.

Cheers,

Dan.

What are you looking at spending on a GTR?

I was just having a look on car sales before there's a few nice 32 gtr's in sa for sale, personal preference for import cars like that is to buy in the same state specially this state, trying to get things over regency is a major pita

I agree , this dudes gonna get raped at regency , everyone on SAU will get the " can i borrow this to get through regency " lol

My opinion. Don't buy a GT-R unless you've got deep endless pockets. Also don't cheap out on buying a GT-R. Take your time, look around. They won't all be perfect these days, but look for the one thats not going to cost you another $20k to get it running how a GT-R should.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...