Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can and it's quite painful and can be time consuming. Have another car handy to allow you to drive to the tool shop to get the right tool you don't happen to have. I found a 13mm crescent wrench very handy, and long extension is needed for the dump to front pipe bolts. You need to get under the car as well as in through the top, take the bonnet off it makes it a bit easier.

1 turbo always has to come off (cant remember if its the front or the back one, most likely the back) to do the dumps. But bear in mind other people have proved the R32 stock dumps can support 350kw.

Can be done without removing turbos, removing front intake of rear turbo is possibly required so the front dump can actually come out. Yes stock dumps flow power no probs but i found a better boost response even from stock turbos with better flowing dumps and front pipe and was worth the effort to have extra push between 3000 and 4000rpm.

from what i can remember front turbo has to removed as dump pipes hit back turbo housing before getting to end of bolts, this is worth every bit of the effort it takes to change, when i did mine with the CES split dumps and equal length y piece i gained 800rpm boost response and just under 40 rwhp and .4 of a second down 1/4 mile and better fuel economy

from what i can remember front turbo has to removed as dump pipes hit back turbo housing before getting to end of bolts, this is worth every bit of the effort it takes to change, when i did mine with the CES split dumps and equal length y piece i gained 800rpm boost response and just under 40 rwhp and .4 of a second down 1/4 mile and better fuel economy

thanks, for the info

  • 1 month later...

Thanks for this post. I'm pulling my turbos off at the moment, and doo doo's input has helped me, I was figuring out the least painful way of removing the dumps. Looks like i'll disconnect them from the front pipe and pull the turbos and dumps off as one, then dismantle them.

I should put my car on ramps before i started, now I gotta figure out how to get under the bloody car

from what i can remember front turbo has to removed as dump pipes hit back turbo housing before getting to end of bolts, this is worth every bit of the effort it takes to change, when i did mine with the CES split dumps and equal length y piece i gained 800rpm boost response and just under 40 rwhp and .4 of a second down 1/4 mile and better fuel economy

With what turbos broseph ?

proberbly only worth changing the dumps when you change the turbos, stock turbz are only good for so much power, not to mention are a ticking time-bomb

if ur happy with the power the stock turbos are providing, why change the dumps? if you want more power and your gonna remove and replace the turbos THEN you can change the dumps, saves so much time and hassle...

Thanks for this post. I'm pulling my turbos off at the moment, and doo doo's input has helped me, I was figuring out the least painful way of removing the dumps. Looks like i'll disconnect them from the front pipe and pull the turbos and dumps off as one, then dismantle them.

I should put my car on ramps before i started, now I gotta figure out how to get under the bloody car

yeah good idea is drive up ramps then put trolly jack under rear sub frame and you can get good room under car, but if you have already started and not done this then ouch it's goin to be a tuff job

proberbly only worth changing the dumps when you change the turbos, stock turbz are only good for so much power, not to mention are a ticking time-bomb

if ur happy with the power the stock turbos are providing, why change the dumps? if you want more power and your gonna remove and replace the turbos THEN you can change the dumps, saves so much time and hassle...

whats wrong with stock turbos i seem to be goin ok with then and if you have some mechanical symophy they last even with 19psi every now and then

dumps help even stock turbos proform better and are well worth the hassel of changing on a 32 gtr

I have done this swap before without removing the turbos but you need to remove the front inlet snout of the rear turbo and the heat shield off the front turbo. Got some pics here with the head and turbos sitting on my bench. It's a really tight fit between the comp housing and dump but with some maneuvering it's possible. If it's too tight you can undo the nuts (but not completely) for the rear turbo to give it some room to move but it shouldn't need to come off. (putting aftermarket dumps back on is easier). Hope this is helpful.

post-48345-1290088614_thumb.jpg

post-48345-1290088640_thumb.jpg

post-48345-1290088666_thumb.jpg

post-48345-1290088697_thumb.jpg

post-48345-1290088769_thumb.jpg

post-48345-1290088848_thumb.jpg

Edited by doo doo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...