Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

How do I reach the speakers in a R34 GT to remove them? How do I fold down the back seat or take out the top part of the back seat?

Help

2dr version

remove the two bolts on seat bottom cushion, remove bottom by sliding forward and off the seat belts catches

remove bolts on seat belt bottom part where they meet the floor pan, for ease of rear deck removal

two bolts on seat back on each corner, then slide straight up but watch the window cause it will scratch tint if your not careful

rear deck is held on by sliding under each side into a notch from the sail panels and two plastic plugs underneath in the middle, those can just pop up with care , also 3 plugs on the front of the shelf lip need to come off

two seat belt moldings need to have the seat belts slide thru them to remove the rear deck, which is why you took out the seat belt lower bolts

rear deck needs to flex down a tiny bit on both corners and up in the middle to remove once everything is loose/removed

speaker grills might need to come off from inside the boot, depends on whats in it now

and maybe a cover for the wiper on some cars , mine was removed with new fiberglass molded deck a while ago

some decks have baby bolts , 3 of them, to remove, some screw from underside in the boot, but once you get the seat out you can see near the shock towers on how they have them mounted ?

to completely access the underside of the rear deck you just remove the plug on the top of the carper liner hiding the seat back in the boot side. the other parts are in the spare tyre well and just pry off with the right tool. forked plastic or metal removal tool or they will break

bolt area on seat bottom

above

bolt area on seat back below

think thats it if I remember right..lol hope that helps. kinda a pain depending on what is in it now ???

some cars have aftermarket speakers already and this will vary on mounting.

Edited by sapphiregraphics

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
×
×
  • Create New...