Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why not try a retrofit with the r33 240km/H dash with lcd screen?

nah. then I lose my torque gauge and the cluster is a different shape so it is not a direct fit.. the HKS peice does tach any way so it will have a digital tach and info meter similar to the more modern R34 GTR.

I have a few electrical tweaks to go on it - this is one of them

also this screen will double as a navi screen when the HKS piece is not being displayed. again its a tweak that I am used to having in the other vehicles I own.

this is a R34 obviously but you get the idea:

DSC_1595r.jpg

DSC_1596r.jpg

did that in 2008 to a mspec nur.

just ordered and paid for NEW heated mirror glass and the associated switch that runs it.

2nd last image of the car you will see it has blue mirrors. the original red ones worked but were missing screws. found these and the associated harnesses to run them. checked that the harnesses are supported by the car - they are. mirror glass was missing.

part numbers for those playing at home.

9636505U00 - Mirror RH

9636605U00 - Mirror LH

25570-71L00 - Switch

mirrors and switch were $290.

I am going to try and get the side glass next. nissan japan seem to be paranoid about shipping it directly to me so I am going to get a mate of mine to pick it up for me.

also this screen will double as a navi screen when the HKS piece is not being displayed. again its a tweak that I am used to having in the other vehicles I own.

this is a R34 obviously but you get the idea:

404737_3067469128955_1330376598_33317445_585834174_n.jpg

395144_3067468608942_1330376598_33317444_941896420_n.jpg

did that in 2008 to a mspec nur.

(repost - fixed images.)

just bought this:

000.900_LCD4CHL_PI.jpg

that will fit nicely into the GTR cluster that I have ( the tach is coming out.)

this in conjunction with a garmin GVN53 and HKS CAMP2 should bring this car into the 21st century quite nicely

already spoke to a speedo cluster repairer as well about making me an overlay with a clear area for it so it all looks factory.

only oversight I had was the amount that a sheet of the material makes - 5 overlays. so once done I will have 4 of them up for grabs in the factory grey instrument color.

Is this just a LCD Monitor with a VGA plug?

I have headed ones in my R32* but have never ever needed to use them and being in WA dont think i ever will. Maybe if i come over east ill go to the snow just so i can use them..lol.

I like the nav screen trick. May i suggest (if you can) edit your first post to include the complete list of part number so people can find what they are after with out going through the complete thread.

* VW not a nissan before you get excited

Is this just a LCD Monitor with a VGA plug?

no. I could buy it as a VGA unit with a composite feed as well . could not be bothered as I have a custom interface already on paper for it any way.

this one is composite video only. I will use the unused radio buttons on the top left of the cluster to toggle between the units.

I have headed ones in my R32* but have never ever needed to use them and being in WA dont think i ever will. Maybe if i come over east ill go to the snow just so i can use them..lol.

I like the nav screen trick. May i suggest (if you can) edit your first post to include the complete list of part number so people can find what they are after with out going through the complete thread.

* VW not a nissan before you get excited

if I can get a admin on my side I will update the first page. there are a lot of part numbers in the 24 odd pages - that I do know.

I have headed ones in my R32* but have never ever needed to use them and being in WA dont think i ever will. Maybe if i come over east ill go to the snow just so i can use them..lol.

I could not buy the normal mirrors.. I had picked up the blue mirrors to fix my red ones. I noted an extra two pin harness hanging off it. prior to this I had been in possession of 3 cars that were the same so I made notes of chassis numbers and with a bit of translation help found that this was a cold weather option. (the battery was the other - northern cars have a HUGE battery.)

I like the nav screen trick.

my van has the same idea except that it goes from navi to a camera. if I get bored I *MAY* do that as well to this car. need to get the overlay done and the HKS item here first.

I am going to use add on harness to add the 'missing' sensors that I I do not already have. I am not sure if front torque is on the data stream or not. never looked and I can't really look until I can power the car up and thats NOT for quite a while yet.

spent today talking to a instrument repairer in salisbury. explained what I was trying to do and he showed me a few examples of the work they do with dials . dropped the tach and indicator overlays off to them and said take your time.

I still need to take them the LCD panel for measurement so everything lines up correctly. I am also getting a new indicator panel done (top center panel with the green arrows and high beam icon.)

the indicator overlay is s 4 color piece and I'm told will be a bitch to make correctly. the aim with this one is to put a security word in black/red on there below the high beam indicator area. the cluster has a spot there for a extra light and that s what it is going to be. the light itself will be a LED out of a toyota starlet cluster, its the only thing bright enough to light that area and not take a nuclear power station to run it.. (I have 30mA to play with most lights take 2-300mA to run)

I will put up images of it once they get it done. for those thinking cheap ebay dials - nup! these are good enough to be OEM.

Christmas for me!!!

I have:

new heated mirror glass

window moldings - set (flat ones that sit on top of the door.)

heated mirror swtich

new sun visors

all of the outside engine bay stickers

tyre placard sticker

new rear grab handle

I will do images in a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...