Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car is having issues where sometimes the rev's would just fluctuate by itself and then eventually just cut off (while driving or on idle). I would try to start it up again and it would crank the first 2 times, then eventually nothing would happen when you turn the key (no click, no sound at all).

To get it running again i'd have to get it jump started, then it would run fine.

It's died 3 times already, the past 2 times have been when i've just been on idle but one time it just completely turned off while in the middle of driving.

What could be the problem? any suggestions?

thanks

Edited by tehbebe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339974-r33-gtst-cuts-off/
Share on other sites

just remembered as well, when i turned the A/C on (While i was idling), the revs would start fluctuating, would that still be the AAC valve?

and thanks for the link ill check it out :(

i had a stuffed air con compressor and when the car was idling the revs would continuously hunt up and down from 1000 to 500 with the air con on. Air con off it was totally fine. Scrapped the air con compressor, bought a second hand one and runs like a dream now.

This fixed my problem, but sounds like yours cutting out might be more than just this.

  • 2 months later...

my idling is fine now, no problem in fluctuation in revs, but brings me to another problem, after my car has been driven hard, or given instant high revs, or pretty much when it starts to get warm, it just dies on me. If i go to start it back up, it just clicks, it wont start up on me again, eventually if you keep trying to start it up it will eventually die and you wont be able to start it up again unless i get jump leads... but here's the thing, if you pop the hood, let it cool down for about 20 minutes, it'll start up again no problem.

ANY ideas?

if it just clicks it usually means your starter is stuffed. not sure y it wove stop your car tho. does it try and turn ova when you turn the key or does it just tick. sorry bout the last post didn't read yours properly.

  • 2 weeks later...

it still clicks when it dies out but eventually if you keep cranking it, it won't even click at all.. although if i let it cool down on the spot without trying to start it up, eventually it'll start again fine. it only seems to just die on me in hot weather or once ive really 'driven' it. :(

Check simple things like your battery, your earth etc.

Could be a dodgy earth somewhere. Heat creates more resistance

Or could be a couple issues, check cas and afm (check the wiring to the plug as well)

+1

Sounds a bit like an earth problem as the symptoms come and go and affect hot-starting and make it cut out.

Could also be your alternator... Got a volts gauge or one you can hook up? If your getting a flat battery while driving (which seems to be what your describing), it'll cause these symptoms...

it definitely sounds like a battery/alternator issue to me as well. this doesnt mean that either are stuffed, you just need to check your terminals properly.

first thing i'd try is a separate earth from the alternator housing to the chassis and see where that gets you. try use a thick earth wire for this. then try the earth on the battery. if thats no good then get someone who knows how to use a multimeter to test your alternator and battery.

it definitely sounds like a battery/alternator issue to me as well. this doesnt mean that either are stuffed, you just need to check your terminals properly.

first thing i'd try is a separate earth from the alternator housing to the chassis and see where that gets you. try use a thick earth wire for this. then try the earth on the battery. if thats no good then get someone who knows how to use a multimeter to test your alternator and battery.

+1

You'll need to check them while the car is breaking down/driving/under load though, as if it sits and idles ok most of the time then testing the alternator then might not tell you anything...

thanks guys, for the updates... the battery and starter/alternator is one of the first things i checked out aswell since thats what i thought it was in the beginning, some guy checked them with some stick thingy lol and said they were fine and it was "charging properly" then he was like "i dont know much about jap cars, take it to some jap place" so i was like okay cool..... lol

i changed my AFM, cleaned AAC, changed fuel pump and fuel filter.. now i was hitting constant boost while driving home one day and it cut out again, this time cos i was on a main road and by myself i just left hazards on while waiting for a lift to help me out cos usually like i said, if i let it cool down for a good 20 mins - sometimes an hour i can start it up again.. but this time it just completely died on me, so the hazard lights eventually let my car to die, some random came and jump started me and i was able to get home fine.

i can drive the car fine, as long as i dont hit constant boost other wise it will cut out. im gonna try look into buying another alternator and see how that goes, if all else fails, ill try a new battery, umm im gonna also unblock my BOV and just put a proper gasket with a hole in it instead of the plate i have. just a thought.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...