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Hey guys need your help, Bare with me im new at this. I bought an R33 GTST about a week ago. Since then ive bought a Drifft Iridium boost gauge to install all went well with the electrical wiring im handy with that stuff. Now over to the engine bay. My car already had a boost gauge fitted to it by the previous owner but he removed it. I thought id just attatch the metter to where it used to be from the old owner to get it to run.. An sucssess it lite up. I was happy with it. Now here is where the problem lies. Just 2 things.

1. On my boost gauge it reads Negative 16 (-16) on idle is that normal??

2. I took it out for a test run and felt the car splutter and sound like it wants to stall. Now i know i have a coilpack problem im waiting for a new 1 to arrive. Prior to the new gauge id get a bit of a miss at 4500rpm . Though Since i installed the new gauge and have it hooked up the problem feels more severe.

as soon as i take the vacume hose off the aftermarket gauge it returns to normal. Have i hooked up the meter incorectly?? ive never done this bfor and thought id give it a shot since i already had the t piece and followed the disconected hose. PLZ help

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From what you describe, it sounds to me like a vac leak. It makes Nissans want to stall when returning to idle. Check your vac connections and check that the gauge is sealed properly.

Hope that helps :banana:

kool ill give it a shot was hoping that i didnt conect it wrong lol well i didnt conect it at all lol last owner did. Just to be clear on it the set up on my RB is like this... I have a vacume hose coming out of the plenium which is then hooked up to the T Piece. From the bottom of the T piece i have another hose running to the BOV then from the otherside of the T piece i have a hose running to my Boost gauge

kool on another note what should the boost be reading on idle?? -7 like the stock gauge? and what size hosses should i run? i may have to replace t piece as the hosses that link up to it from the previouse owner are quite large compared to the little gold fitting i got for my boost gauge

OK so i bought a new t piece and new vacume lines and tried it again and its still doing it also my new coilpack came in 2day so ill fit that on saturday and see if anything changes... I hope it fixes the problem... ill let ya know by sat arvo.. also if anyone knows any other reasons this is happning plz fill me in.. im scared ill damage something expensive

My gauge reads -20, my greedy elec boost thingie reads -99 (about -10 psi) but both read 16 psi on full boost.

I think the - doesnt really matter but I could and have been wrong....

so if any of the piping from the intercooller can make the engine splutter ayy?? well when i just disconect the hose leading to my boost gauge everything runs normal.. by the way my gauge is digital not mechanical.. just thought mayb that info would make a difference

My gauge reads -20, my greedy elec boost thingie reads -99 (about -10 psi) but both read 16 psi on full boost.

I think the - doesnt really matter but I could and have been wrong....

yea u see im getting -16 on idle when i take of and rev i think i can get to mayb 5 or 7 then when i back off it drops down to -21 then goes back to -16 i bought the gauge to find out what sort of boost im running lol i thought the gauge would tell me on iddle.... i really dont knonw how to find out wat boost im runnning can anyone fill me in??

from what i know u will always get a negative readin on idle. If you want to know what boost you're running then get a mate to sit with you while u accelerate (hard) the gauge will rise and show you your max boost. hope that helps

from what i know u will always get a negative readin on idle. If you want to know what boost you're running then get a mate to sit with you while u accelerate (hard) the gauge will rise and show you your max boost. hope that helps

kool ill give that a shot. Also i forgot to mention in my post since changing the vaccume hosses ive noticed like a BOV flutter but its coming from the pod flter is that bad ive heard about people blocking some pipes or hosses to get that sound and apparently it forces air the wrong way to the compressor and spins the turbine the wrong way

OK flutter is gone the hosses i used were to small so i bought turbosmart vac hoses and fixed it up also i was at utobarn today and the guy pointed out that the hose from my acctuator is left like a breather he told me to take the heatshield offf the turbo and reconect it to the housing but i cant find the nozzle in the end i simply reconected the carbon canaster does the stock acctuator link up to the turbo housing???

ohh and still no result in linking the boost gauge up. So i guess ill have to search for a boost leak. Whats the best way to find it??. Also another thing ive been told that it could be overfuelling making it sputter on boost ive checked the engine bay and reved her a few times and i did smell a lil bit of fuel.. does anyone know how to fix the issue if it is overfuelling??

Sorry for the bombardment of questions iots just starting to get a lil fustrating

  • 7 months later...

Mine currently sits on -15/16 during idle. All my previous turbo cars sat around that mark on the boost gauge during idle so I'm assuming it's pretty normal and you have got nothing to worry about. I had a vacuum leak once and it sat on like -5, but once I fixed the leak it went back to -15 again.

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