Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey forum just a general knowledge question here. I used the search function, but found no topics on the subject. I just would like to know what effect what a machined 3076r comp housing have on a gt35r?

Faster spool, slower spool, same spool, less horsepower at same boost or same horsepower at same boost?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340336-effect-of-smaller-comp-housing/
Share on other sites

think i read a while ago from someone of the xr6t persuasian that swapping from .5 to .7 on a gt35 is worth 20 or 40 kw in the top end or someting, not a massive amount... i'd imagine spool would be effected relatively proportional to power

think i read a while ago from someone of the xr6t persuasian that swapping from .5 to .7 on a gt35 is worth 20 or 40 kw in the top end or someting, not a massive amount... i'd imagine spool would be effected relatively proportional to power

Hmmm so where would the .6 get you? Would you still have the top end capability of a 35r with a somewhat quicker spool time? Or would the effect be negligible? Would it still make more power than a 3076r of the same specs?

That hybrid 35r would prob make better powar than a 3076r, purely because it's got the larger rear, and less exhaust restriction.

I'd say response would be the same, the comp. wheel's inertia is the same, and the hot side is unchanged.

However you'd probably make more/better power at lower boost levels, and I'd imagine less power at higher boost levels.

i.e. it would move the efficiency range of the turbo down a tad.

think of it like installing a smaller profile camshaft, just makes different power at different revs.

that's my $0.02...

It wouldn't work because the inducer diameter of the 82mm GT40 56T compressor wheel is larger than the 76.2mm GT37 56T wheel . From memory the GT40's inducer is ~ 61mm where the GT37's is ~ 57mm . The compressor housing on a real GT3076R is port shrouded and the radial surge slot is positioned to match the height of the GT37 wheels lower or splitter blades . It wouldn't be right for the GT40 wheel and I'm not sure if there is enough material in the inner shroud to take a GT40 compressor .

The early XR6 turbos used a 0.50 A/R plain snouted T04E compressor housing and I can't see why you couldn't fit the plain snouted 0.60 A/R version of that housing if it was profile machined to suit the compressor wheel .

To me it sounded like Ford only wanted to run low boost on the early XR6's and having a GT3582R with the largest turbine housing and the small ratio T04E comp housing would have given them low hot side pressure and reasonable gas speed on the cold side with low boost pressure .

It really shouldn't be too hard to get good torque out of a twin cam 24v 4L turbo engine but as usual you can't choke it up on the hot side if you want a reasonable rev range - and reliability .

Personally I think a GT35 based turbo is a bit marginal on a four litre engine and a T04Z or GT4088R would have been better , trouble is they don't have a "T3" mounting flange or an integral waste gate .

Garrett do make a port shrouded version of the 0.70 A/R T04S compressor housing , the generic GT3582R usually gets the plain snouted bell mouthed version of it .

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_714568_10.htm

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...