Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

need help from those who have or know bout polishing up an engine bay

ive had my licence suspended for 1month and since the car isnt goin no where

ive decided to polish all the alloys in the engine.

more to the point im using a orbital sander with 320grit paper on the pipe with the stock bov and having trouble getting it smooth all the way down, and am scared to use a thicker paper.

after this process i plan to use a 800grit then a 1200

im also plannng on doin plenum n engine

any suggestions on mayb goin about it a better way or added info on the matter??

also ive already done a search on the topic and it helped only to a certain extent

if anyone has pics it would also b great.

john c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34038-polishing-engine-bay/
Share on other sites

It won't become smooth until you start using the other finer grade papers.. then it will start getting a lot shinier. Its hard work and takes many hours but eventually it'll come up.

Just keep going, sounds like you've got the right idea.

end result will do!

post em up

i done all this about 5 months ago. just used sand paper to get all the cast marks out of the alloy then used a polishing cloth on a bench grinder i used 2 stages on the polishing mop for the bench grinder , first a medium compound then fine/mirror. hope this helps.

i couldnt attach my pics cause they are already in a thread here. do a search or look for a thread tittled '' my new look engine bay '' all my pics are there.

here is mine: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=31877

.. over time the shinyness does tend to fade a little.

you can also use one of those buffer attachments for a drill and a decent polishing compound if you don't have a bench grinder.

Predator> ok so to sum it all up...you did

1. Sanded down any burs and crap (what grade papers you use?)

2. Polished (use anything specific?)

3. Repeated 1 and 2 until desired shinyness

4. painted (any prep work needed primers etc etc?)

this sum it all up? am taking notes

.. over time the shinyness does tend to fade a little.  

Autosol fixes that... ;)

I have a polished plenum, rocker cover and power steering canister.

It's a fair bit of work to keep it shiny, but it looks pretty :cheers:

Before and after pics of the engine bay can bee seen in the link under my avatar.

it takes a long time but the longer you spend the better it gets. you got the idea of steping down the grade papper, i use wet an dry. apply small amount of water or petrol to sanding surface or papper now and then. you should be able to get a polish finish just with sand papper, then when you buff with polish until black clean off with a new buff (clean cloth or buffer with no polish on it) and it will come up like mirra

Just grab a drill and a tapered grinding stone to start on the deeper areas and all the burrs, gently does it now, then use a flapper wheel attachment (coarse) on the drill then use a fine one with the scotchbrite in between. Then your choice is the buffing attachments for the drill or the bench grinder if lucky enough to own one. If buying a benchy then buy big and powerful NOW not later. Eventually you will have....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...&cat=500&page=1

messiah: yeah autosol works fairly well at polishing, in conjunction with a fast polishing buffer can work wonders. With painting, mine was never painted but once its all smooth I assume after that its fairly easy to paint using any painting method (using the appropriate heat resistant paints)

sky-chicks car is a great example... probably heaps more shiney than mine.

If it doesn't come up great, you may be better off just taking the parts of completely and taking them to a specific metal polisher (see: yellowpages).. they will probably give you a much better result than doing it manually, and saves time. Will cost you a bit of money, but generally its not much as using the proper machinery it can be done in minutes. Then you just have to worry about bolting it all back together.

Once you've finished with the polishing, you can apply a clear coat, but over time the clear coat will start to turn yellowish and dull......

it's easier to leave it raw and autosol it before showing it off. :)

Or get Lanosil from Supercheap. Comes in a pressure can and keeps the shiny stuff looking good. Needs a clean now and again tho. I did the engine bay in the soarer and it looks showroom after a few days driving. Sprayed everything. Got a couple more cans now to do the other cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...