Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

i just got a clean Aus S15 spec R, no mod at all.

but i like to do some minor myself. can someone give me some hints?

  1. where to buy and install a body kit in WA?
  2. what exhaust system is good for S15, bascaly, i do not like that big cannon sound.. i just wanna some sports sound thats all..
  3. rims size? and tyer?

i dont get much invovled with mods before, so your help is much appreciated

Thanks agian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340399-aus-s15-seeking-advice/
Share on other sites

power extreme II from GCG is a good start on the exhaust, nice note without being loud. Decent return Floe inter-cooler is a must too as the std one is shouse.

Body kit well... there is about 11billion variations. post a pic of what you want and i can give you details of people in the business (we used to supply alot of kits to distributors).

Rims... well again it comes down to taste, some nice offset rims in 18" look the best, s15 are a bit lacking in room in the rear but a 9.5" will fit in a decent offset and 9" on the front no worries.

A factory Spec R with a decent stance and a set of wheels would look better then a body kitted one, but depends on what body kit you get...

Get a set of decent coil overs (fully adjustable suspension)

As Trent said, a decent set of 18 x 9 / 18 x 9.5" should look flush for fitment.

A quality made "oval" shape muffler should keep the noise down.

power extreme II from GCG is a good start on the exhaust, nice note without being loud. Decent return Floe inter-cooler is a must too as the std one is shouse.

Body kit well... there is about 11billion variations. post a pic of what you want and i can give you details of people in the business (we used to supply alot of kits to distributors).

Rims... well again it comes down to taste, some nice offset rims in 18" look the best, s15 are a bit lacking in room in the rear but a 9.5" will fit in a decent offset and 9" on the front no worries.

Hi, thanks so much for replying me that quick..

en i think i better leave exhaust for a while... as i can only do few things at a time..

this car has already got a ---i think is a aero skirt on it....so i assume, i will just get a front and rear bumper.. matching or not matching, as long looks good...

so do you know some place that i can go their web or site view?

regards to rims and tyers, this car is gun metal color,, so i would prefer Black wheels?

if pick 18" -9".. what tyers will be? 225/40 or 245?

Thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...