Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day

Just wondering if many people have had issues with frying igniters when using Vipec? Might not be a related problem but there's two I know of now and I'm trying to get a feel for whether this is common.

Not trying to criticise the Vipec, I'm very happy with mine.

I know igniters die from heat and age but I'm interested to see if there's a few dying when a Vipec is involved.

Related thread here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...rs-t340484.html

Thanks

Edited by Scooby
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340779-vipec-and-frying-igniters/
Share on other sites

my old tuner killed my ignitor when we put a vi-pec v44, ran for a little bit then died, this was on my old s13 sr20det.

put in a microtech x4 ignitor and not sure if he changed any settings but it has run ever since, he tried to blame the heat and its age etc but i really dont believe it, was too coincidental.

I'm running a v44, haven't driven the car much since installation though due to boost issues. I've resolved those as of yesterday (touches wood) so I'll be driving it a lot more soon, will find out if I join the fried igniter club.

Dave do you think dwell would specifically kill the earth circuit in the igniter? BoostdBarge pulled his apart and in each case the earth circuit had gone. Soldered it up and all's been good for a long while.

I guess the earth circuit works harder than the rest as it's loaded 6:1 every time a cylinder fires and with wasted spark it's even worse. So with excessive dwell it'd be under signficant load.

DVS32R what circumstances did yours die under ie cruise, idle, boost etc?

I don't expect there's going to be a mass of people with this issue, but a few is enough to suggest more than a coincidence.

Edited by Scooby

Ditch your coils and ignitors and run LS1 coils.

This issue has been found on other skyline forums as well, the stock ignitor will need to tuned wit dewell time before you can get more use out of them but they apparently still die even when you get the settings right.

also remember this is a wasted spark system. the coils / ignitor is running harder then it would in a common standard ECU situation that has direct fire for all coils at once.

Extra fire from wasted spark = extra heat = extra problems with weak earthsinside the ignitor, im sure nissan did not design everything to run a 200% speed so old age and turning up the ante with wasted spark explains why.

LS1 or LS2 coils are the go.

I seen standard coils run fine up to 400hp at wheels, i upgraded to the vipec and found lots of problems with spark blowing out no matter what i did.

Replaced coils with LS1's and problem was solved.

if you wired in a v88 im sure this problem will be seen rarely.

As mentioned, I have fried a few of these. Even a brand new one from Nissan ($750 worth!)... I've reduced the dwell, put in Splitfire coil packs and soldered the burnt out ground and haven't had a problem for a year now. Anyone know of any other wasted-spark setups that are burning out ignitors?

Pics of the inners of the ignitor and the fix here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...67#entry4875367

Ok spoke to Ray Hall, extremely helpful as usual. Emailed him the map and he was on the phone 10 mins later, confirmed the dwell is fine, if anything a touch on the conservative side.

Asked about the V88 and he said it would allow more dwell but he doesn't believe the V44 is the cause in any case so nothing to be gained by switching to V88 his view.

He suggested it's most likely either a voltage spike, in which case the ecu would probably have been fried, or a poor earth, and to call Mark at Godzilla motorsport. Again, Mark was really helpful. He also suggested a poor earth.

there is nothing wrong with the vipec, its just my guess that the default dwell setting is to long, more dwell = more spark but hotter running. less dwell gives a weaker spark but nicer on the drivers.

i burnt out 2x bosch 008 igniters with my old autronic before i worked it out..

im fairly sure stock dwell time is around 2ms most people run up to 3.5ms without dramas.

Mine was a bit over 2ms. We reduced it to around 1.7 I think. It still fried after that, so it doesn't seem to be dwell that's the problem. Good idea to check your ground. I measured mine and also pulled the coil pack loom apart and re-taped it. Couldn't find any issues. Very strange...

Scooby, so you're in Brissy? Me too. I could probably fix the coilpack for you if you want. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...