Jump to content
SAU Community

Hid Kits

Jenkk

By Jenkk,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jenkk Collaborator

Jenkk

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

i know there are heaps of topics on this but i cant seem to find one where people have installed H1 kits into their r34... most have done the D2R with adapters...

are there any cons to putting h1 kit in?... just seems easier as all topics on dr2 kits ppl have cut holes etc into rear of light cap..and just seems to be so much muckin around?

any help would be awesome! any recomendations too!

Cheers

Kris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340879-hid-kits/
Share on other sites
jezza boii Grand Master

jezza boii

Posted
Posted
you could just install the mock up xenon globes which are like $30 at supercheap

I bought some of them 2 years ago. They were complete crap. Could barely notice any difference from a normal globe.

Maybe they've changed since then though..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340879-hid-kits/#findComment-5502858
Share on other sites
Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted

I have H1 HID's in my 34, but apparently D2R globes are better, because the reflectors were designed for the D2R lights, so with H1, your lights would be scattered.

But for some reasons, there was already a hole in my caps, but it could just be the previous owner.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340879-hid-kits/#findComment-5503427
Share on other sites
Jenkk Collaborator

Jenkk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I have H1 HID's in my 34, but apparently D2R globes are better, because the reflectors were designed for the D2R lights, so with H1, your lights would be scattered.

But for some reasons, there was already a hole in my caps, but it could just be the previous owner.

oh okay, cheers!

any problems with your H1's? still bright? what temp should i get - 5000k??

6000k would bring problems with cops ive heard....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340879-hid-kits/#findComment-5503549
Share on other sites
Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted

Well.... I've got 35w 6000k in mine. Looks pretty white. But all in all, ANY aftermarket HID kits are illegal, as they aren't self-adjustable. So I can if you put a set of 12000k, you will get more attention than 5-6000k. And you can get done for em, just because some haven't, doesn't you won't lol. But at the end of the day, it is pretty easy to disconnect and plug your normal globe back in.

The difference between 5000k and 6000k is not that noticable, but difference between 5-6000k and 8000k is pretty noticable. As for voltage, you wouldn't need the 55w kit, 35w is bright enough. More power it uses, the hotter it gets, and you wouldn't want to melt your headlights :)

And if you want, I can get you a pic tomorrow night.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340879-hid-kits/#findComment-5503613
Share on other sites
Jenkk Collaborator

Jenkk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Well.... I've got 35w 6000k in mine. Looks pretty white. But all in all, ANY aftermarket HID kits are illegal, as they aren't self-adjustable. So I can if you put a set of 12000k, you will get more attention than 5-6000k. And you can get done for em, just because some haven't, doesn't you won't lol. But at the end of the day, it is pretty easy to disconnect and plug your normal globe back in.

The difference between 5000k and 6000k is not that noticable, but difference between 5-6000k and 8000k is pretty noticable. As for voltage, you wouldn't need the 55w kit, 35w is bright enough. More power it uses, the hotter it gets, and you wouldn't want to melt your headlights :)

And if you want, I can get you a pic tomorrow night.

+1 for pic! - cheers for ya help bro!

should i go for D2R globes or H1?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340879-hid-kits/#findComment-5504556
Share on other sites
Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted
+1 for pic! - cheers for ya help bro!

should i go for D2R globes or H1?

If you could take the compliance adaptor out, then of course D2R, but for me, they somehow stuck the adaptor on permanently, so.....

But when it gets darker, I'll go out and take a pic for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340879-hid-kits/#findComment-5504978
Share on other sites
Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted
SWEEET! Thanks for ya help bro! looking about getting some Philips H1 HID KIT 6000k from ebay

have ya had any ppl flash ya as if they are too bright? i guess its about the angle tho ey

Nah I haven't lol, coz I don't drive around on the highest setting :)

I keep it 2nd from lowest, so it's not that bad at all. I think I can still adjust the actual light itself to make em point down even more, haven't had time to play with it ever since installed.

But as for kit, I think you shouldn't splash so much money on one kit, because there are so many kits available now, and they are around $70-90 and for the price you pay for Philips, you could buy like 3-4 of them over a few years ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340879-hid-kits/#findComment-5505339
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...