Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate, 1 week is nothing.

believe it or not, people may have personal issues which may hold up sending an item(s). i know the car was still complete so maybe he hasn't found the time to take the part off the car yet as well?

1 week is certainly not long enough to start posting on someones thread and making them look bad.

Fck, impatient kents on here.

Every item has been packed and sent as paid for, except for cooler and shifter which will get done tomorrow.

As much as I love a successful part out, you guys need to chill, parts take time to remove, then pack, then send.

Someone has to be present when the courier driver rocks up, which is f**king difficult to pull off every day, considering how un punctual truck drivers can be.

Plus you need to factor in that your payment takes around 3 days to clear. Then I have to purchase stuff to pack it and then find the time to pack and book courier, they will then come between 10 and 6 the next day. That's a pretty broad spectrum.

Plus I don't spend every minute in front of sau like Alot of you guys, so don't flip the f**k out when I don't reply to your pm after 11 minutes. Call me, leave a voicemail if I'm to busy to answer, and when I have the time I'll call you back. I get about 30 txts an hour, I apolgise if I miss yours. And no I won't call you back if you call and don't bother to leave a voicemail, I'm busy. I'll update the items sold when I get to a pc.

My number is 0427buckna, I'm not scamming any one, I'm not going anywhere, enough people all over aus have met and traded with me without dramas or hussy fits. Get your shot together, you can't all be 15yrs old.

Sorry to have kept hasseling you dude.

$1800 is a fair bit of coin for me and I freaked it because it appeared like as soon as the money cleared I couldn't get a hold of you at all. So as you can imagine alarm bells started ringing.

And for everyone else who thought I was complaining about a week taking to long, it was a week from the day Buckna said the courier picked the parts up and I was just trying to check if he had given the courier the specific instructions about leaving the parts if no one was home...

Sorry for the problems mate, I'll post up when they arrived and thanks for your time.

Cheers

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...