Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah cool cool. But curious about if really is worth spending the $50-59 bucks on the 5L for some those brands vs, things like Castrol and Shell etc that can buy from Auto Barn, Super Cheap etc... I want to be changing the oil every 3months of 5000kms, and $80 each time whilst doing all the work myself still feels a little steep...

I used to run Castrol Edge 5w30 in my SR20DE, and that worked really well, but last couple changes went to Castrol Magnetic 10w40 cos the engine was starting to get a bit more rattly with its age.

it will be worth it mate, it isn't THAT much extra for a much better oil.

Yeah, fair enough call

$20 for genuine filter vs $13 for a ryco.

$59 for the oil vs $40.

I guess the $26 bucks extra for quality and upkeep of such an awesome vehicle is worth it.

filter - just use ryco imo.

In the other thread was saying the genuine ones are meant to be better quality than the ryco ones, but not sure how or if is really true.. But is convenient to get them both together at the same time..

Headlights installed. Boost gauge fixed (not perfectly, and not properly, but on a way that seems to be working successfully....) - should fix it properly later.

Any one able to advise on where the clutch adjustments are on the skylines? I wanna make it start engage closer to the floor like I did in my previous car - if possible.

Almost certain. Well, certainly not worn as much as my pedal movement would suggest.

Autotech advised me after having my car there once that the clutch pedal was adjusted right out, and that they put it back where it should be. It has since found it's way back to where it was pre-adjustment

On my Pulsar all I had to do was find the arm that attaches to the gear box, where the clutch cable attaches, and tighten it (shorten the cable - lock nut + adjuster nut), then adjust the nut behind the pedal in the car to take away the slack that has now been created.

I'll look more carefully at home, and see if can find it.

this is potentially a very dumb comment on my part, but I was under the impression this was a hydraulic clutch in the skyline lol

Which I do not know, and that may be totally correct, this is why I was asking :D

They can be adjusted, but are done differently and I have NFI...

yeah I'm 99% sure it's hydraulic...the adjustment would be on the master cylinder part of the system, probably above the pedal inside the cabin...I'm gonna have a looky at mine this arvo

Yeh confirmed was hydraulic. And thats fine. Now gotta see how the adjustments work, and have a go at fixing it without rooting it. *fingers crossed*

Clutch adusting mission a complete sucess.. It was a bit of a pain in the arse, and had to use pliars to help, but got there.

There is possibly a little too much free play at the top end now, but couldn't adjust it more.. and I'm not positive what the sensors all do on each pedal, but I believe it still depressing it correctly. I'll check again tomorrow.

New headlights look awesome. However the issue with my boost gauge is a bit odd, but prob just needs a new tube.

Well after hanging my head down in the footwell for a good 5 minutes, I can see exactly how all the adjustments work....

From the looks of things, you can adjust the piston (our main concern), the throw as I'll call it (how far down you can push it), and the release (how far back it will come)

I'll be spending some time adjusting mine tomorrow arvo or Saturday morning.

I think I got mine pretty damn good, minimal movement in general, but the adjuster at the top for the pedal position is now maxed out - had to make sure the little sensor button still presses. But It was a pain cos had to use long nose pliars to turn the MC shaft, but it worked in the end. I'm happy. Now just gotta get used to it - again.

Let me know how urs goes.

Edited by J'son

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
×
×
  • Create New...