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Yeah cool cool. But curious about if really is worth spending the $50-59 bucks on the 5L for some those brands vs, things like Castrol and Shell etc that can buy from Auto Barn, Super Cheap etc... I want to be changing the oil every 3months of 5000kms, and $80 each time whilst doing all the work myself still feels a little steep...

I used to run Castrol Edge 5w30 in my SR20DE, and that worked really well, but last couple changes went to Castrol Magnetic 10w40 cos the engine was starting to get a bit more rattly with its age.

it will be worth it mate, it isn't THAT much extra for a much better oil.

Yeah, fair enough call

$20 for genuine filter vs $13 for a ryco.

$59 for the oil vs $40.

I guess the $26 bucks extra for quality and upkeep of such an awesome vehicle is worth it.

filter - just use ryco imo.

In the other thread was saying the genuine ones are meant to be better quality than the ryco ones, but not sure how or if is really true.. But is convenient to get them both together at the same time..

Headlights installed. Boost gauge fixed (not perfectly, and not properly, but on a way that seems to be working successfully....) - should fix it properly later.

Any one able to advise on where the clutch adjustments are on the skylines? I wanna make it start engage closer to the floor like I did in my previous car - if possible.

Almost certain. Well, certainly not worn as much as my pedal movement would suggest.

Autotech advised me after having my car there once that the clutch pedal was adjusted right out, and that they put it back where it should be. It has since found it's way back to where it was pre-adjustment

On my Pulsar all I had to do was find the arm that attaches to the gear box, where the clutch cable attaches, and tighten it (shorten the cable - lock nut + adjuster nut), then adjust the nut behind the pedal in the car to take away the slack that has now been created.

I'll look more carefully at home, and see if can find it.

this is potentially a very dumb comment on my part, but I was under the impression this was a hydraulic clutch in the skyline lol

Which I do not know, and that may be totally correct, this is why I was asking :D

They can be adjusted, but are done differently and I have NFI...

yeah I'm 99% sure it's hydraulic...the adjustment would be on the master cylinder part of the system, probably above the pedal inside the cabin...I'm gonna have a looky at mine this arvo

Yeh confirmed was hydraulic. And thats fine. Now gotta see how the adjustments work, and have a go at fixing it without rooting it. *fingers crossed*

Clutch adusting mission a complete sucess.. It was a bit of a pain in the arse, and had to use pliars to help, but got there.

There is possibly a little too much free play at the top end now, but couldn't adjust it more.. and I'm not positive what the sensors all do on each pedal, but I believe it still depressing it correctly. I'll check again tomorrow.

New headlights look awesome. However the issue with my boost gauge is a bit odd, but prob just needs a new tube.

Well after hanging my head down in the footwell for a good 5 minutes, I can see exactly how all the adjustments work....

From the looks of things, you can adjust the piston (our main concern), the throw as I'll call it (how far down you can push it), and the release (how far back it will come)

I'll be spending some time adjusting mine tomorrow arvo or Saturday morning.

I think I got mine pretty damn good, minimal movement in general, but the adjuster at the top for the pedal position is now maxed out - had to make sure the little sensor button still presses. But It was a pain cos had to use long nose pliars to turn the MC shaft, but it worked in the end. I'm happy. Now just gotta get used to it - again.

Let me know how urs goes.

Edited by J'son

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