Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

personally id go the EVO, there aint many around so you get the whole "unique factor".

id say (dont know figures here) they weigh alot less and are generally more chuckable (should that be your thing). At the end of the day, the Revolution / kittled lancer call is basically the same as the GTSt with GTR bodykit call, sure theres a HUGE performance difference, but shit, get what you want.

what pulls your pickle more ?

oh yeh, mal crockenberg, john st welshpool - www.crockenbergmotors.com.au

HEy boys

Thanks for your opinions...

I have found a R33 GTR that i love - making 600+hp in the eastern states. If the guy comes down on his price (which is not likely) i'll fly over have alook and buy it if its sweet.

BUT

It looks like the EVo path will be the way to go -

Im currently looking at a evo with a motec ecu, dms50 struts, whole lot of other mods. Which ill be able to buy for mid 40's which will leave me enough to but the TD06-25G turbo kit. So ill have a killa evo that will run 11's easily.

Daniel

what about a stagea, rs-four v? :cheers: I'm getting one.

They can be had for mid 20's and with the spare coin you could turn it into a manual autech version with an R34 front plus few more horses that will do 11's, go around corners and have people saying wtf !

Stagea are cool - BUT no interested.

What something more sporty, and sorry but no way a stagea will handle anywhere close to a evo - not sure about the GTR though..

Thanks anyway boys.

Daniel

I was going to get the GTR, but I have swung over the the evo 6.5 - due to the fact that they are:

* Are very rear and are alot newer (2000 - 2001)  

* Are more compact

* Are a fantastic handling car

* And have a fantastic engine with forged internals ( rb26 is great as well)

Well I would choose the GT-R for a couple of reasons.

I find the interior of the Lancer very crampt, I don't like the pedals, the gear lever position or action or the seat height. The GT-R on the other hand is much nicer, though I would prefer a reach adjustable steering wheel.

The GT-R has climate control, works very well. Aussie Evo 6.5 doesn't.

The sound of a straight six is pure heaven, the Evo engine has a purposeful and interesting note (when you dump the stock straw) but it doesn't do it for me. Though the RB26 note can become droning and tiring on a long trip.

And also I love the look of the BCNR33, so for me the choice is easy.

Thanks Guys

Gojira - im looking at the JDM evo - so it has climate control, but some good points never the less.

Rev - not a fan of the r32 - to old school for my liking.

Daniel

as rev said...if you want a rally car then buy an evo, but all of us love the road... and you cant explain the way an r33 gtr sits the road to anyone!!! evos look like they have an overlander kit...

i agree with gojira when it comes to the sound of a rb26 aswell.... :cheers:

personally, i've always had a soft spot for evo, albeit only the 6.5 TM edition, no other evo comes close to it :)

but i'm gonna have to say gtr, bit more costly to insure i'm sure it'll be worth it :)

adrian :P

That would be Crockenberg Motors. Malcolm is the man spinning the spanners. Top mechanic and top bloke. Used to get my old Sigma Turbo maintained by him. Located at 5/77 John Street, Welshpool, (08) 9358 0302.

As for Evo VS GT-R, I'd go GT-R all the way. Reasons, not based on a 4-door shopping trolley, won't get mistaken for a GLi riced up, plenty of good aftermarket parts (new & used) available around Australia. But then again - as most people have said you're only going to get biased decisions here.

In perth there is a ralliart GURU in Wleshpool who does all the ralliart vehicles then they come to perth for rally oz etc

for some friggin reason i have a mental blank, but its off welshpool road

 

I think that coming off a WRX the EVO tm will be a more confortable vehicle to drive. albeit alot more nimble than the wrx, and the rarity is something to look forward to.  

 

Umm in terms of price wouldnt you be closer to an R34 GTR instead of an R33. And the active Yaw control in the evo is supposed to be worth the dosh

 

and what about an M3..tee hee hee

Dan,

ive driven an Evo 6.5 and recently both an Evo 8 and an MSpec 34... id take the Evo though the 34 is a special place to be in

driving the 34, it feels faster (seat of pants) as opposed to the Evo which to be honest doesnt feel all to impressive... the interior is not as nice as the Skylines but it is newer which is a definate plus.. if possible.. try driving both like what i did and go for the one you feel most at home in

Thanks Guys

Rev - not a fan of the r32 - to old school for my liking.

Daniel

I'm with Rev.

Give the R32 another consideration as a part time/weekend car and get a conservative daily driver or bunky with the change. No stress about leaving a corolla or magna parked in a dodgy carpark on a Saturday night.

Don't have to go to my extreme tho - an ex RAC van!:Oops:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...