Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i recently installed a set of bc racing coilovers on my v. There are a few installation queiries for any1 that has installed them. Its really To do wid the rear spring seats.

1. Firstly do the insulators/bumpstops have to be removed.?

2. Secondly to the adjustors need to be on the top spring seat or on the top like the first pic or on the bottom like the second. These pics will help explain wat im talking bout.

Any help wud b appreciated.

Thanks

post-66891-1287808059_thumb.jpg

post-66891-1287808079_thumb.jpg

Edited by CRISP 35
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Now I understand, I was sent the V35 suspension for my car. The m35 needs taller rear springs otherwise identical... :laugh:

Anyway, the adjuster hangs from the top and the thin rubber sits under the spring at the bottom.

Now I understand, I was sent the V35 suspension for my car. The m35 needs taller rear springs otherwise identical... :laugh:

Anyway, the adjuster hangs from the top and the thin rubber sits under the spring at the bottom.

K thanx so u sayin the bumpstops need to b on the top and the adjustors on the bottom. Im askin cuz my rear is not goin low as my front

Sorry ma bad i just realised wat u said. So the adjustors sit on the top like the first picture. So does the insulators get removed though? Pedders reckon they do were as the guy who installed it reckons if i remove it il get a clunk sound. The main point here which i shud have mentioned earlier is that mines installed like the 2nd picture. And i have only got over an inch drop in the rear.

Pedders? :laugh:

They should be installed like the first pic, the large bump stopper isn't needed and will stop the full travel of the spring but the lower rubber is needed under the spring to stop the noise.

The threaded adjuster sort of clips into the top.

Pedders? :D

They should be installed like the first pic, the large bump stopper isn't needed and will stop the full travel of the spring but the lower rubber is needed under the spring to stop the noise.

The threaded adjuster sort of clips into the top.

Ahh thanx mate. Yea i fully understand now. Na it was pedders that said basiclly wat ur saying. This oder guy that installed it is to full of himself to admit hes wrong and insists the adjustors will only go one way that is on the bottom. There was a large debate bout this in the g37 forum thats how i was able to grab both those pictures.

Steve, you got it sorted with the coilovers, or do you still have to go back to that guy?

Ahhh bro i need to tell u the story wen i c u. Basiclly i completely lost my cool today wen i took it back to his shop got in2 a big arguement. They saying the big rubber bump stop has to stay or my tyres will hit the top of my guards wen i go over a bump and cause damage to the shock and tyre. i don undastand wen i even downloaded the installation guide it says remove the bump rubber. Anyways im jus gonna get it done somewere else who nos bit more and is bit more friendly towards their customers. Ahhh we learn by our mistakes.

Ahhh bro i need to tell u the story wen i c u. Basiclly i completely lost my cool today wen i took it back to his shop got in2 a big arguement. They saying the big rubber bump stop has to stay or my tyres will hit the top of my guards wen i go over a bump and cause damage to the shock and tyre. i don undastand wen i even downloaded the installation guide it says remove the bump rubber. Anyways im jus gonna get it done somewere else who nos bit more and is bit more friendly towards their customers. Ahhh we learn by our mistakes.

Ok, that's not good at all. Let us know how it goes man.

We might catch up again this Friday or Saturday night.

OK, just for future reference -

The first picture is the correct install.

The adjustable spring perch (gold thing) needs to be at the top. Its designed in a way that it fits inside top mounting position perfectly, meaning you throw away the factory rubber cone.

The only reason why anybody would keep the rubber cone on the car is if they installed the springs upside down (with the adjustable perch on the bottom). In this case you need the cone to keep the spring properly in place. This is the WRONG method clearly, because it would mean you have to remove the spring to adjust the height! Crazy. Also it will prevent you from lowering the car as much as you might want to. I imagine it would also mess up the matching of adjustments between the spring height and shock height.

**Note: you must keep the other rubber mount (flat one). It goes on the bottom, between the spring and the arm.

Thanx for that brad. Yes mine was installed like the second pic and the only reason y i was able to lower it is cuz that f*****g tool took one one of the lock rings off the springs seat otherwise there is no drop. He still insists there is a fault wid the coilover yet no one else complains a lot bout bc racing.

Edited by CRISP 35
Ahhh bro i need to tell u the story wen i c u. Basiclly i completely lost my cool today wen i took it back to his shop got in2 a big arguement. They saying the big rubber bump stop has to stay or my tyres will hit the top of my guards wen i go over a bump and cause damage to the shock and tyre. i don undastand wen i even downloaded the installation guide it says remove the bump rubber. Anyways im jus gonna get it done somewere else who nos bit more and is bit more friendly towards their customers. Ahhh we learn by our mistakes.

I was looking into Tanabe or Tein Comfort Sports for mine. Looks like (besides your installation drama) that you're pretty happy with the ride? I might contemplate looking into these. Keep us posted on the ride if you come across any dramas.

Which Pedders did you get them installed at? Just so I know for future reference :)

He would have to be pretty dim to think that he has them installed the right way. At least after putting it all back together and seeing what it looks like.

Seriously mate, I would just invest in a few good tools and a slab of beer. With a mate handy you should be able to knock it off in 2 to 3 hours tops. You'll need at least 2 jacks, some stands, a socket set, and if you're as weak as I am you may also need to buy a 12v impact wrench to loosen the stubborn lower bolts.

Also if you're dumping it as low as I have, then I highly recommend buying a set of the following and leaving them in the boot.. they've proven to be absolutely invaluable.

TAKATA LDS (low down slope)

takata_lds_ramps.jpg

He would have to be pretty dim to think that he has them installed the right way. At least after putting it all back together and seeing what it looks like.

Seriously mate, I would just invest in a few good tools and a slab of beer. With a mate handy you should be able to knock it off in 2 to 3 hours tops. You'll need at least 2 jacks, some stands, a socket set, and if you're as weak as I am you may also need to buy a 12v impact wrench to loosen the stubborn lower bolts.

Also if you're dumping it as low as I have, then I highly recommend buying a set of the following and leaving them in the boot.. they've proven to be absolutely invaluable.

TAKATA LDS (low down slope)

takata_lds_ramps.jpg

Now that you mentioned the things that are essential to do this job, the guy that installed the coilovers wrong didn't have those low down slopes. Me and Steve had to hold the car up from underneath the front wheel arches so he can get his floor jack out from under the front bumper after lowering the car. :)

Edited by Victor.T
I was looking into Tanabe or Tein Comfort Sports for mine. Looks like (besides your installation drama) that you're pretty happy with the ride? I might contemplate looking into these. Keep us posted on the ride if you come across any dramas.

Which Pedders did you get them installed at? Just so I know for future reference :down:

Tanabe is guud bro. Well so is tein offcourse. The prob is tein is bit too overpriced imo. The BC BR coilovers was regarded by many as the best bang for buck coilover on g35 driver along wid stance form and function . U wont find a lot of complaints about it. Plus iv heard guud reviews bout it over here on SAU. Pedders did not install it it was a place called evoloution R in bentely. Pedders actually gave the correct info and said they have been installed upside down. Even the pedders coilovers are pretty guud.

Ride is guud i jus need a few more adjustments to make it even better will le u no if theres any dramas.

Yeah, the ramps are not essential, but are definitely very handy.

To the other bloke who is thinking about buying coilovers - I was also looking at the Tanabes, and some other brands, but settled on BC Racing. They are excellent value for money. The tanabe items at around about the same price level do not have the same level of adjustment. Also the way that you adjust the height on the fronts of similar priced items is not ideal (basically, you would be just compressing the spring.. with the BC racing coilovers you are effectively shortening the whole strut assembly, keeping the spring static).

Now that you mentioned the things that are essential to do this job, the guy that installed the coilovers wrong didn't have those low down slopes. Me and Steve had to hold the car up from underneath the front wheel arches so he can get his floor jack out from under the front bumper after lowering the car. :thumbsup:

geez you guys must be really strong? on a serious note...is this the rears only steve or the front you wanna swap unsidedown? if its the rears i can help you as itll be a 10 min job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...