Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi people

i've got an r33 sreise II with planned 400rwkw.

its got a stand diff now but i am planing to run it down the quater with full drag slicks with the proposed power.

my question is will the standard diff survive (my guess is no)

and if it doesn't what is the better option, r33 gtr diff, hubs and shafts or pull the diff housing apart and put a minispool in it (locker)

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341968-lock-or-not-to-lock/
Share on other sites

The stock diff is quite capable, If anything Locking a diff (i.e. welding the internals) can cause weak points in the diff as the welds are never as strong as the components and more often then not under heavy loads the welds often crack.

400rwkw I would stay with the standard diff and say go to a two-way or something if your going to be using it as a track car.

If your spending enough money on the car to make 400rwkw it's kind of silly to go the cheap way if you choose to modify the diff.

by stock i mean non shimmed, and not a clutch activated aftermarket 2 way...

stock = stock, not stock + bitz :)

I understand what you mean by stock, what I said was that if you were to upgrade the diff for better handling in corners like track work etc... you'd go with a 2-way

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...