Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just installed SAFC I today by mechanics, dunno if they installed it correctly, since when i go into 'Monitor' --> '4 Channels' its shows the revs go up as i accerlate, also the air flow and correc. BUT NOT 'Trottle'

Throttle is always at 0% is this correct?

The main issue here is i want to reset the settings completely or change everything to value 0?

so that my car doesnt act so spastic, when i accerlate,

At the moment when i acceralte-moving to certain RPM's the car fully jerks (reminds me wen i first learnt manual) and sometimes the car seems like it will stall when dropping its REV's

Very dicculty to drive

Can some please help

where should i set the values to 0.

and dont say get it DYNOED as i will not untill i have an exhaust!!!

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34198-safc-i-reset-help/
Share on other sites

when i change it to "04" "04" the cars rev starts droppin then the car turns off.

i figure '04' do to the table for my vechile. and i read the manual

"If. Sensor type is 'Hotwire' ...............

"if Sensor type is Pressure'...........

nothing beside it, looks like a bad pdf scan? a blur line in the pdf.

page 28 of the pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34198-safc-i-reset-help/#findComment-685678
Share on other sites

Yeah.. make sure you get the sensor type correct. I remember dicking around with that setting at one point. If its incorrect basically your engine check light will stay on and wont start. If you do a search on here you should be able to find out the base settings to at least be able to drive around until you get it dyno tuned.

THR should visible on the screen (% to full floor accelerator). Even if its just in ACC mode (e.g. not running), you should be able to press your foot to the floor and see the % THR change. If its not changing then its possible your mechanic forgot to connect the correct line to the ECU.

I've got an S-AFC I as well, so if you want the base settings and still having trouble PM me and I'll go turn my car on :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34198-safc-i-reset-help/#findComment-685810
Share on other sites

Yeah.. make sure you get the sensor type correct. I remember dicking around with that setting at one point. If its incorrect basically your engine check light will stay on and wont start. If you do a search on here you should be able to find out the base settings to at least be able to drive around until you get it dyno tuned.

THR should visible on the screen (% to full floor accelerator). Even if its just in ACC mode (e.g. not running), you should be able to press your foot to the floor and see the % THR change. If its not changing then its possible your mechanic forgot to connect the correct line to the ECU.  

I've got an S-AFC I as well, so if you want the base settings and still having trouble PM me and I'll go turn my car on :)

omg Throttle % does not rise as i accerlate, only the airflow % & rev %

guess mechanic f*** the wiring? =

ill pop the ecu out later and take a look.

yes please with standard settings, just in case i left anything out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34198-safc-i-reset-help/#findComment-686849
Share on other sites

dont do it with the engine running...  just turn the key on until the reds come on in the dash...  perform the settings... turn the car off and then start it...

hehe thx,

i remember when i went to pick up my car, my hands got itchy so i played around with the settings, but was only meant to check the Monitors menu at the red lights.

somehow went to ETC and selected a wrong sensor

Revs dropped and my car stalled right in a Hwy (80 kph) road. :)

had to jump start it, as the battery was raped when trying to start it 20 times.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34198-safc-i-reset-help/#findComment-686851
Share on other sites

When connecting my SAFC-I this week we noticed the manual doesn't actually tell you to connect the throttle wire. I had the SAFC-II manual as well and had to use that to wire the throttle. For some reason it only reads 85.8% foot flat to the floor though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34198-safc-i-reset-help/#findComment-686952
Share on other sites

mupkant: went out to check my SAFC(1).. sensor type should be definitely "hotwire" (referring to the AFM I think). Check your voltages in "sensor check" while the engine is off. Sensor1: should be reading a reasonable value (around 1v or something). Sensor2: should be reading around 0v (mine was fluctuating between 0 - 0.1v). Again, THR voltage should increase as you put foot to the floor.

Definitely sounds like your problem is the lack of the THR line.. check the loom near your ECU to see whether its wired up.

neil:se -> go into the "sensor check" mode off "etc" and check the voltages.. mine at 100% THR (foot about 90% to floor) is about 4.35v. I'd check you're connections, maybe its dropping a bit of voltage due to dodgy solder job, etc. It could make a difference to overall effectiveness if the THR is out a bit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34198-safc-i-reset-help/#findComment-687120
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @robbo_rb180 I already have a NEO head on the shitbox 馃槑 Just needs beehive springs so I can rev it past the 8600 rpm limiter, then again pointless too, turbo is out of puff lol. Wen da gods let me win lotto eh?
    • Everyone I know with a90 supra at time attack aren't having issues with 3-5 fast laps so far and one is decent powered one too. Saw a k24 swapped 86 with a 8hp70 and big slicks and aero which had no drama's at QR and Manton Park. I've stuck a 25 row cooler in my setup with 8hp45/50 in the hopes of keeping the oil cool as I plan on some racing next year that 20-30min sessions. I've also geared my car so won't be using 7th and 8th gear too. @Dose Pipe Sutututu just needs to get that samsonas in already and have that tassie guy fit a head and rev it too 11ty thousand rpm. 
    • My embedded systems thoughts have me sitting with GTS on this. Variation between same phone hardware, should be small. However, the internal "intensity" or "volume" amount that say Google passes to the app, will be quite different, as the underlying hardware will be passing different levels for the same volume to the Google OS. Until the app creator has had each individual phone, and set benchmarks and calibrations for each, the amount of error can be quite huge.   It can even be observed by using different phones, recording the same noise, and then playing it back, they end up soon ding different. A big reason for it, is even the different types of mics used in phones have different responses, and different frequency ranges. Then you need to get into the DSP, and the variations in those, their sample rates which then effect their frequency range, and then the quality of the DSP, and what type of hardware conversion they do to for the ADC within the DSP. Oh, and let's not forget at the low level phones are designed to cutout loud sounds. It's one of the reasons they suck in really loud environments (eg concerts). The louder you yell, the more you'll get cutout too Note DSP is Digital Signal Processor ADC is the analogue to data converter. I don't have any real data on what the variation would truly be, however, chat GPT says in general, their output is typically between +/-2dB to +/-5dB of what you're really measuring. So realistically, anything from 4 to 10dB variation is possible even with the same devices.
    • 'sif the error will be that low!
    • I do know where there is a fair few 馃槈
  • Create New...