Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was planning to give my alternator a birthday but cant remember exactly what should be changed. I learned about this all in auto electrical class about 7 years ago. Is it the bushes I should replace? is there any point changing the regulator if it hasnt died?

any info appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342097-alternator-refresh/
Share on other sites

i can't imagine anything needs to be changed if it's all working ok.

Brushes can wear out though.

my alternator in my R33 died the other week (regulator shat its self) and the brushes in it looked pretty good (car is 17 years old and 150,000Kms on the clock)

only time i've seen worn brushes was on my 1984 alfa 33, which had done like 270,000Kms.

so unless your car is rather old or has travelled quite far for it's age, i wouldn't really bother too much with it.

my old s13 with about 130,000kms on it suffered a failure of the alternator and I realise now I got ripped off to the hilt by dodgy mechanics as it was probably one of those two things. Living in Tokyo, I dont really want to be stranded anywhere (especially elevated freeways) so i figure its a good idea to tackle it before it f**ks me.

so, more opinions, ideas?

My guess would be regulator (which usually contains the brush pack), rectifier and bearings. The stator or rotor could fail but I imagine that's very rare.

If it were me I wouldn't touch it until it dies, after all, if you're not going to replace everything else that could cause the car not to run what have you achieved? For example, i would replace all the rubber coolant hoses first, because they're getting old and my guess is they would be more likely to fail than the alternator.

"i would replace all the rubber coolant hoses first, because they're getting old and my guess is they would be more likely to fail than the alternator."

Yeah, done this already. Im going for reliability on this car before I get too crazy with other stuff. No point going fast if simple stuff will die on me.

how much am I looking at for the part?

i wouldnt change regulator if it hasnt failed. just unsolder the brushes out of it and replace. is a bearing at either end of the rotor that can be done.be careful removing bearings and try not to lever off other parts etc and use a press if possible. make sure the slipring hasnt got a big groove where the brushes run. but really an alternator nearly never would leave you stranded on an overpass. you will almost always get warning light, nasty noises or electronics will start cutting in and out before you get stuck.

I still have vivid memories of my s13 rolling to a stop half way home many years ago. Then again there may well have been warning signs and I was just too thick to notice. Pretty sure my GFs at the time died also, I think i changed it myself (7 odd years ago now).

Well, im gonna talk to nissan tommorow about getting the bushes replaced, prevention never hurt nobody

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...