Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i have a r32 gtr which has been running a bit weird latetly.

at first it was occasionally about once a week, but now its getting more common, like at least everytime i drive it.

cold mornings its fine, once it starts warming up is when the problem occurs.

i first noticed it when i parked my car, let the turbo timer do its thing then just as i was walking away it started spluttering at idle, did that for 5 seconds then regained normal idle. it also did this while waiting at a set of traffice lights (even while i was rolling upto them) blip the throttle a few times and it sometimes goes back to normal idle.

why is it doin this?? its VERY annoying, ive even swapped the idle position sensor and still had the same problem.

also say im just driving down the road, it will even splutter (like its out of fuel?) nd have no response on throttle. then as im trying to accelerate in gear (while still doin speed limit, slowly gettin slower) it sounds like it misfires. sometimes this goes on for 5 mins and i cant even drive it, and other times its over in 10 seconds? then back to prefectly normal.

even if you hold your foot in the same spot on the accelerator pedal, it will cut out, accelerate, cut out etc..

i seriously have no idea whats wrong with it.. fuel pump? something to do with idle control? but that wont help the problem while at speed? it could be 2 different problems.

if anyone could help that would be GREATLY appreciated

Cheers.

Also check the cam angle sensor, you can just unbolt it and have a look. Mine had broken teeth causing this, replaced with $100 second hand CAS and worked fine.

^ When I changed the turbos it started fine, misfired after 20 mins, started feeling like you were turning the ignition on/off etc. I checked afm's, cleaned injectors, filter, ignition module, etc. Replaced the CAS with a mates, still no go, changed back to mine, worked fine. Turned out the plug for the CAS just needed a wiggle/twist. Dunno if your prob is the same but,

Coils: I'd unplug one coil to see if it sounds different/makes it worse. Check each coil, takes but a few mins.

AFM: I'd simply get AFM cleaner and clean it anyways, if it's the stock one. Few bucks, worth it.

CAS: Wiggle the plug/Unplug and reseat. Borrow one from a friend before spending money on replacement.

Fuel Filter: Cheap, but nasty to replace if you have big hands.

Plugs: How old?

cheers guys, its hard to diagnose cos its not always happening, just sometimes desides to do it.

wiggled/unplugged the CAS - same

its not the coils either, checked them

plugs are probly due for a change, but that would make it run shit all the time? or not?

but when i un-plugged the AFM it started to run shitty, exactly like the problem i explained above.. then after a few seconds it regains idle but wont rev over a few thousand revs, (not crisp anyway)

is there any sort of tests for AFM?? to see if they working correctly? or faulty?

thanks, will try to find an igniter and see how it goes.

but how do you know if the AFMs are dodgy? any way of telling? or just have to swap nd see?

just swapped the AFMs with another working pair from another GTR, seems to be working perfectly fine atm.

hopefully this is the problem! nothing worse than not knowing what the hell is wrong, hate guess work haha

need to find a set of AFMs now, or find out which one was faulty if not both.

thanks alot guys!

Cheers.

just swapped the AFMs with another working pair from another GTR, seems to be working perfectly fine atm.

hopefully this is the problem! nothing worse than not knowing what the hell is wrong, hate guess work haha

need to find a set of AFMs now, or find out which one was faulty if not both.

thanks alot guys!

Cheers.

Id replace both. If you do try to buy a set of nismo ones, they are more expensive but have the same characteristics of a Z32 meter which is good if you make some more serious mods to the motor.

Yeh I was looking at some nismo ones, still not sure yet.. Either quick and cheaper fix with STD ones or upgrade to z32 or nismo and get it re tuned. I do wana upgrade the engine later down the track tho, but my pockets arnt deep enough at the moment hah

May go for the cheap fix first then upgrade a bit later on

Cheers mate

fair enough.. looks serious! haha

i just got HKS pods, lookin to change to the Apexi setup.. will get onto nismo ones soon!

but in the meantime will std AFMs from a Aus delivered GTR work on an imported GTR? i was just wondering if they are diff?? probs a stupid question but am just curious?

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...