Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

im after a little bit of advice.

Im currently looking at an r32 for sale, and for the record im an s13 boy .. i sold my previous car and did months of research on these cars and watched the market closely to see prices and whats avaliable.

Anyway by mistake i came accross an r32 gtst (type m) for sale which has caught my eye and im very interested in it- it is 5speed has pod filter BOV and exhaust. however i havnt been baying much attention to skylines these last few years as it was more of a "dream" to own a r32 then a reality.

Basicallt this is the first car ive looked at since the sale of my previous, so im hoping im not jumping the gun on this, but i guess im just after some advice.

I am unsure of the prices of 32's and if they vary in price from state to state??? Can anyone shead any light on this for me?

The guy is asking 12,500 for it and it needs some body work as it has hail damage .. however its just a cosmetic thing, and i can fix it at a later date.

I guess i need advice on what to look at when buying an r32, where to check and stuff. the guy told me it was just his daily driver, and appears it is just that and hasnt been drifted and trashed from what i can tell (apart from when it was in japan)

its done 106,000kms and its just had its 100,000k major service with the timing belt (chain?) replaced. hasnt been boosted.

Uhmm.. i guess thats it for now. just need to know what to look at and need to know if the price is good.

also i havn't been up todate with the new import laws for r32s.. does anyone know where its headed? as i dont wanna go spend 13k and find out in 6 months every man and his dog can pic up a complied 32 gtst for 7-8 grand

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34281-r32-advice-s/
Share on other sites

Generally, good-condition R32 GTS-t's go for around $15k. The imports laws are set to change at the end of this year, meaning that it will cost a lot more to import the R32.

And I doubt you'll be able to pick up a complied GTS-t for $7k-$8k; a decent example would be about $10k complied (inc. a service and those 'little things').

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34281-r32-advice-s/#findComment-687291
Share on other sites

Check for worn shock absorbers (normal for a car that age), oil quality/condition (some people have no idea when it comes to putting the right stuff in), steering (the HICAS could be stuffed), keep your ear out for a 'knocking' sound coming from the engine (improperly tuned), as well as the turbo itself. Those ceramic wheels can get a little iffy when boosted too high.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34281-r32-advice-s/#findComment-687514
Share on other sites

i have had climate control problems with my aircon... but as long as the car is well maintained... R32's are a good choice dude...

I have the King of the R32.... 93 vspec... brembo's standard.. :P if u can.. save up for a GTR dude... cause i knew i would always regret getting lower range model..

Good luck.. and work harder to save for the GTR dude

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34281-r32-advice-s/#findComment-688526
Share on other sites

- cold starts can be a problem that many people have found so check that out

- rb20's are realiable and should not be burnign any oil at all. if its not on full when you check the dipstick, question it...

- same for trannie fluid. if it ain't pinkish then question it (of course if he says he hasn't changed fluid in 20,000kms then probably won't be but you may catch him out)

- climate controls can give way (screens go blank) but doesn't happen to everyone. just play around with it a bit to make sure it all works

- make sure there's no water in the boot or spare tyre

- make sure its never been boosted above 14psi as this will cause the stock turbs to sh1t itself

that price seems OK as long as there's not too much body damage... remember that the condition of the trim must match the kms orr something dodgy is going on

you won't regret looking into an rb20!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34281-r32-advice-s/#findComment-688937
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...