Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Advice .. :S


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

im after a little bit of advice.

Im currently looking at an r32 for sale, and for the record im an s13 boy .. i sold my previous car and did months of research on these cars and watched the market closely to see prices and whats avaliable.

Anyway by mistake i came accross an r32 gtst (type m) for sale which has caught my eye and im very interested in it- it is 5speed has pod filter BOV and exhaust. however i havnt been baying much attention to skylines these last few years as it was more of a "dream" to own a r32 then a reality.

Basicallt this is the first car ive looked at since the sale of my previous, so im hoping im not jumping the gun on this, but i guess im just after some advice.

I am unsure of the prices of 32's and if they vary in price from state to state??? Can anyone shead any light on this for me?

The guy is asking 12,500 for it and it needs some body work as it has hail damage .. however its just a cosmetic thing, and i can fix it at a later date.

I guess i need advice on what to look at when buying an r32, where to check and stuff. the guy told me it was just his daily driver, and appears it is just that and hasnt been drifted and trashed from what i can tell (apart from when it was in japan)

its done 106,000kms and its just had its 100,000k major service with the timing belt (chain?) replaced. hasnt been boosted.

Uhmm.. i guess thats it for now. just need to know what to look at and need to know if the price is good.

also i havn't been up todate with the new import laws for r32s.. does anyone know where its headed? as i dont wanna go spend 13k and find out in 6 months every man and his dog can pic up a complied 32 gtst for 7-8 grand

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Generally, good-condition R32 GTS-t's go for around $15k. The imports laws are set to change at the end of this year, meaning that it will cost a lot more to import the R32.

And I doubt you'll be able to pick up a complied GTS-t for $7k-$8k; a decent example would be about $10k complied (inc. a service and those 'little things').

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check for worn shock absorbers (normal for a car that age), oil quality/condition (some people have no idea when it comes to putting the right stuff in), steering (the HICAS could be stuffed), keep your ear out for a 'knocking' sound coming from the engine (improperly tuned), as well as the turbo itself. Those ceramic wheels can get a little iffy when boosted too high.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have had climate control problems with my aircon... but as long as the car is well maintained... R32's are a good choice dude...

I have the King of the R32.... 93 vspec... brembo's standard.. :P if u can.. save up for a GTR dude... cause i knew i would always regret getting lower range model..

Good luck.. and work harder to save for the GTR dude

Link to comment
Share on other sites

- cold starts can be a problem that many people have found so check that out

- rb20's are realiable and should not be burnign any oil at all. if its not on full when you check the dipstick, question it...

- same for trannie fluid. if it ain't pinkish then question it (of course if he says he hasn't changed fluid in 20,000kms then probably won't be but you may catch him out)

- climate controls can give way (screens go blank) but doesn't happen to everyone. just play around with it a bit to make sure it all works

- make sure there's no water in the boot or spare tyre

- make sure its never been boosted above 14psi as this will cause the stock turbs to sh1t itself

that price seems OK as long as there's not too much body damage... remember that the condition of the trim must match the kms orr something dodgy is going on

you won't regret looking into an rb20!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.instagram.com/p/C6pukBHrOKB/?img_index=1 Has someone f**ked with the jam nut on the failsafe solenoid? Stuff like this is never supposed to be touched, if it does the transfer case can lock up solid and never bleed properly. Nobody knows what the correct setting is for stuff like that from the factory.
    • Hey guys just wondering if I can get some clarification on this refrigerant pressure sensor wiring. I bought a 3 pin pigtail to wire in a refrigerant pressure sensor and I just want to make sure I'm reading the schematic and connecting it properly. My ECU doesn't have anything in pin 57 so I put a pin in and ran it to the WHITE wire on the pigtail. Then pin 48 to the BLUE wire and connected the GREEN wire to ground. After doing this I went for a drive and my CEL came on. The car also had jumpy acceleration. Since pin 48 is also the power source for the throttle position sensor I'm wondering if I messed up or reversed the wiring somehow. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
    • Nismo short shifter is just the lever.
    • Inside and outside ESCON Field in Sapporo in Hokkaido
    • Gday gents, been having a issue for a little while now and have come for some advice. car is a r34 gt-four (awd na sedan), when taking tight corners such as car parks and roundabouts feels as if the diff is locked on both ends, have literally snapped 3 shafts and issues doing my head in. Car has 60k klm so mechanical failure in the diff is unlikely but possible, been to 2 very reputable shops near where I live and both have had no luck. What would be my process of trying to find the cause? not too interested in pulling apart transfer cases just to find nothing, have these cars come out with electronic BS that might cause this? not too mechanically inclined so any information will probably be passed on an expert thanks in advance 
×
×
  • Create New...