Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Im new to this and im sorry if this isnt the appropriate place to post, hopefully i learn quick. But i would really appreciate some experienced advice. Its been long dream to buy and own a r32 gtr and im finally in a position to make a choice. Ive spent so much time reading this and that to better prepare myself for the world of skyline ownership. I held back and got myself through uni and now into a solid full time career so that i have steady income as cars only cost money full stop. Its not a matter of crying wolf and im very decided on this vehicle for long term ownership. Im now at the point of searching for the right vehicle, but its such a crucial decision i dont want to get wrong. My question is am i better off buying a modified skyline and when i say modified i mean reasonably built (i have been seriousy looking at cars over 300kw, with the right suspension, brakes etc to match), not just bolt ons or will i be safer with something only slightly touched. I dont have the deep pockets initially and this car will be a daily drive so i worry about a modified car which will tend to be molestered could just cost me too much when things break. I intend to put the car on tracks and modify to my hearts content so a car with a good base would save me money. But on the other hand im finding it so hard to find good examples of looked after vehicles and even harder to trust what owners say about them, the best looked after cars seem to be the ones in reasonably stock condition. Im sure there will be problem after problem the more things you change and tweak and i only hear of how much a nightmare they can be, not really wanting this to happen to me what should i do? ive started to lean towards v spec models, though harder to find they tend to better maintained. The brembos stock are a plus and a better tuned attesa sound attractive. Any criticism and knowledge you can offer would be great, but i would prefer experienced knowledge not people who just think they know what they are talking about as i get that all the time, so many people believe because they subscribe to hot4's or the like they are experts. Id rather be honest and Im very excited about now not having to window shop and being able to finnally buy the car i have wanted for a long time, i just dont want make the wrong decision on which one i buy. thanks alot

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342810-new-and-keen/
Share on other sites

First of all, say it with me, PARAGRAPHS. You will get a much better response from people without the wall of text :verymad:

I was in a similar position to you when I first bought my GTR. A lot of people recommend buying already modified examples as you can save a shitload of money etc but I never really trusted anything that had any decent work done to it. And like yourself I had planned on using mine as a daily drive. Having a 300kw + car for a daily drive just isn't necessary add in the fact that most of the modified examples are running twin plate clutches etc that can be a pain in traffic I concentrated more on finding a clean stock example rather than the one with the most mods.

Try and get a later model 32 if you can. 94 Models use the same crank as the R33 with the bigger oil pump drive so you can be a little more confident in it surviving a few track days. Also if you can find one with the stock turbos replaced with similar sized units that would be a benefit as the ceramic exhaust wheels are getting old now and tend to exit stage left with anything over a bar of boost.

Make sure you do all the usual checks, steering wheel and pedal condition will normally give you a good indication of kms travelled. Most of them won't have their stock dashes in anymore but few people change the pedal rubbers.

Hopefully a few of the other more experienced guys will throw in their 2 cents aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342810-new-and-keen/#findComment-5529620
Share on other sites

My 2c. If I were starting again i'd have a preference for something which had already had the turbos done, that is, stockers rebuilt with steel wheels or -7 (aka R34 N1) or -9 (aka HKS GT-SS). The stock ceramics will blow at some stage, and may take your motor with them as they go. Also, its a big job to change them.

Since I bought my car, i pulled out the OS Giken twin plate which was a PITA in traffic (my GTR is my daily driver) and my single plate organic is easy to use and copes with the 300kws the car has now. I also installed softer suspension, tho its probably still too stiff for street is probably about right for track. The car is very streetable now.

Other than that, make sure you dont spend all your money. Its 20 years old after all so you want some money in the bank for maintenance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342810-new-and-keen/#findComment-5530479
Share on other sites

paragraphs check. lesson 1 :D

thanks for the advice, its helping me keep my head straight and not rush my purchase. I have recently found a 1992 GTR the sticker price is slightly out of my range but i hope to negotiate this down. Its stock unfortunately apart from an exhaust but the reason i like it is because its so tidy. 116k on the clock, v spec kit, white, r34 gtr rims. The exterior meets exactly how i want my car to look and thats appealing because then i can just concentrate on getting the engine right. This is only the second car in 3 months that has met my strict expectations on the outside. This may seem irrelevant to some but it would be money i would save down the track.

It seems turbos, crank and oil pump are the first nescesary moves and i know this will cost. As well i want the brembos, i hate cars that dont pull up. The car is with a dealer and comes with 12 month warranty, its a fresh import untouched by aussies, not to say that the japanese rigorously look after their vehicles. If i was to keep the engine stock, work on suspension and so forth would it be better to consider an engine swap down the track rather then losing money starting scratch. I dont want to let this one go if it checks out when i go for a test drive and look it over seriously, but am i making an ametaure mistake?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342810-new-and-keen/#findComment-5532732
Share on other sites

I was in the same boat as you about 18 months ago, but was very specifically after a v-spec II, it turned out that mine did have ceramic turbos, I found this out when they blew up... Thankfully my motor was fine but the turbo swap is a bitch of a job. If I was doing it again I would be looking for a car that had some of that work already done, turbos, ecu etc. End of the day if you are worried about a car having this work done having been flogged, well, what are you going to do with it??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342810-new-and-keen/#findComment-5534657
Share on other sites

I'm going against the flow.

Buy a modified one with receipts. I did that and it worked out sweet. 500awhp for $25k, 8000km motor and the chassis had only done 67000km, zero rust. However, as a daily, I'd say no... Twin plate clutches are annoying as fk in rush hour.

Just take your time and search high and low...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342810-new-and-keen/#findComment-5534844
Share on other sites

also something worth considering is the condition of the drivetrain as this is also one of the fundamentals of the car that makes it great. people often forget that the 4wd system not just the engine is what made the 32 GTR so damn unbeatable even by today's standards. and given the age of these cars the rear diffs, transfer case and front diff could be a little worn from spirited driving. you also have to be quite pragmatic when it comes to selection because most GTR owners don't mind giving it the beans when they come out of a corner and there are no cars or po po in sight. anyone that argues different is a charlatan and doesn't deserve one!

but there's nothing more annoying than having a GTR with niggling drive train issues. IMO i think that lightly tuned engines make good usable power and are quite resilient and trouble free provided that they are regularly serviced with good oils and correct viscoscity. make sure the engine oil is clean and the coolants are nice and fluro green. but the fellas are quite right about the stock turbos. they will definitely need to go.

i've never had any major engine problems in the four years i've owned my 32 gtr but i'm starting to get drive train problems. i've replaced the bushes in the rear sub frame and diff because they've never been replaced since production! and i'm in the process of replacing all the front ends and all with nismo bushes (although i'm starting to regret the nismo diff bushes because they are waaay hard and now the diff clunks because there's no give!) and then there's the diffs, the synchros, and front diff and i think it's only going to get worse before it gets better. and if you smell something that smells like burnt hair after driving it with a bit of vigour, you can pretty much get ready to throw that transfer case out. or sell your first born to have it rebuilt. but meh, it is what it is and she is a demanding mistress that is totally unsympathetic to your finances. i've spent more on chassis than i have on engine but i think the rewards are greater if not more satisfying. i just think putting more power through worn and fatigued parts is just going to make things worse.

get some decent coilovers with good tyres, bigger discs and good pads are just as effective as brembos IMO if your calipers are in good condition (braided lines also make a world of difference) plus struts and braces and you won't be able to wipe that stupid shit eating grin off your face when you take it through the twisties.

hope you find the right one or the right one finds you and get ready to compile a list of organs you think you can live without in case you need to sell some to placate the i-need-more-power gods. owning a 32 GTR is quite an undertaking that requires commitment and the patience of a monk and it's an emotional roller coaster not for the faint hearted. but damn if it doesn't give you a tickle in your pants everytime you mash the loud pedal and hang on as that RB26 obliterates time and space.

GOOD LUCK mate and post pics when you've found The One.

Edited by GZILAR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342810-new-and-keen/#findComment-5535066
Share on other sites

Well i think i have found the car for me. thank you all for your input its been really usefull. After 3 months of searching im having a test drive today in a 1993 V-spec. Completely original and stock, even the exhaust. It was a compliance car and hasnt done anything but sit still for 12 months due to the legal requirements. The car is very clean, no centre gauge cluster due to double din cd player.

Its from a dealer and has a 12 month warranty which im sure will be very limited. The interior is very clean with wear and tear considering age but well kept (no tears, pedals and wheel not that worn at all). After really good advice and pointers from Mark Berry (if you dont know him youtube search his name and you will see his 400kw monster) the car is ticking alot of boxes. The test drive today will be the last chance it has to disappoint me but at this stage it isnt cheap considering its stock but i feel i have found a good clean example. It will suit me as a daily and weekend cruiser and i can slowly do what i want to it over time. Very excited as i could take posesion by monday afternoon, but im going to put it through the usual tests today to make sure.

ill let you all know the result :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342810-new-and-keen/#findComment-5535197
Share on other sites

well it was god dam awesome, still cant get over how quick it was and its stock. Im picking it up monday and i will post pictures. Thanks everyone for the help. Now you wont get me of this forum

Edited by mas
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342810-new-and-keen/#findComment-5535348
Share on other sites

well it was god dam awesome, still cant get over how quick it was and its stock. Im picking it up monday and i will post pictures. Thanks everyone for the help. Now you wont get me of this forum

Once you have it you might want to consider joining the skyline club in your state and going on cruises or similar :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342810-new-and-keen/#findComment-5535498
Share on other sites

but i would prefer experienced knowledge not people who just think they know what they are talking about as i get that all the time, so many people believe because they subscribe to hot4's or the like they are experts.

Not trying to be funny but this is the internet mate. ;)

Still at least you sound like you have done a bit of research and know you can't duct tape a screamer onto a stock turbo. :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342810-new-and-keen/#findComment-5536665
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...