Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

According to V35 (japanese magazine) the series2 (Jan03 - Nov04) models sold in Japan when new as follows

350 GT-8 3.66million Yen

350GT 6MT 3.00million Yen

350GT Premium6MT 3.25million Yen

Have no idea what the exchange rate was back then but today it is about 82Yen = $1AUD making them cost between $36k and $46k. No doubt there would be some dealer and rego charges to add but they were not as expensive as you would imagine domestically.

(The autos are far more popular in Japan accounting for 99.5% of the production of these models.)

According to V35 (japanese magazine) the series2 (Jan03 - Nov04) models sold in Japan when new as follows

350 GT-8 3.66million Yen

350GT 6MT 3.00million Yen

350GT Premium6MT 3.25million Yen

Have no idea what the exchange rate was back then but today it is about 82Yen = $1AUD making them cost between $36k and $46k. No doubt there would be some dealer and rego charges to add but they were not as expensive as you would imagine domestically.

(The autos are far more popular in Japan accounting for 99.5% of the production of these models.)

Unfortunatley, it doesnt work this way.

For whatever reason, there is a big mark up for cars in Australia. Its not just import tax and GST either.

Take a look at the yanks, they pay only $27 - $29k (USD) for a 370z... while we pay $70,000. Work that one out.

Unfortunatley, it doesnt work this way.

For whatever reason, there is a big mark up for cars in Australia. Its not just import tax and GST either.

Take a look at the yanks, they pay only $27 - $29k (USD) for a 370z... while we pay $70,000. Work that one out.

So true! Was in the States a in July this year and drove my cousins 335i around LA - when asked how he could afford it, well, it only costs $45,000! (compared to $105k+ out here). I guess Aus is still better than some Asian countries like India, Singapore and even M'sia.

^Diabolique - I was in the US a few weeks back and another reason why Beemers are so affordable is that they were offering 0.9% interest for the life of a loan... If that was the case here I would def consider a 335i

Yeah I think the $70k mark would be realistic. I'm cringing to think how much the V/G coupes will cost when Infiniti hits Australia in a year or 2 (or 3), bearing in mind it is well and truly possible to privately import a base model V36 coupe for somewhere around $35k give or take at the moment.

I recently had to replace my V35 after some fool didn't look where he was going. After the slightly inflated insurance value (agreed value was a good choice) I found myself tantalisingly close to having enough cash to import a V36. Unfortunately when I added up the cost of all the extras I would definitely want (ie the Chris Rogers treatment) I would have been blowing the budget out of the water. In the end I settled for a nice Series 2 V35 for an excellent price, could afford to have all the extras added and still have change from the insurance payout. Its been said many times before but V series coupes are brilliant value :blink:

Edited by MSKYO

And if we want to get even more ludicrous, the famed example is the commodore SS.

Its built here, in australia, and we pay about $50k for virtually the same thing that gets exported to the yanks and they pay only $32k for it.

Anyhow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...