Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • chaos

    7164

  • Ska

    5791

  • BelGarion

    3645

  • Nexus9

    3590

Top Posters In This Topic

haha.. sounds like a great tyre to put on the r31 :D the retreads are starting to go.. although for retreads they have copped a fair bit of abuse.

man victoria is so depressing.. its going to be good to be back in QLD I tell you!

hmmmmm yeah nagkangs, I have heard they are good for no grip, sorry I would've paid the $30 each more for the falkens, grip is awesome out of them, but then again, they could've been out of your budjet, but yeah I have hear they are the crazy clarks of tyres :D

I used to have Nankangs on my car, they must have been the cheapest tyres they could find that would pass compliance. They were terrible, absolutely no grip, dangerous in the wet (braking down a hill was nearly impossible without locking the fronts!) and very unpredictable. Without any warning they'd just let go, I had some sphincter-puckering moments catching sudden, violent back end slides with the Nankangs on. I put a decent set of tyres on and the difference was like night and day. The car no longer felt like it was trying to kill me :D

well ze326 i guess don't feel unsafe, but they don't really grip too well.. but considering how you like to spin the tyres they'll be ok for that :D I got about 15,000km and about 12 months out of the rears on my r33. Thats not good value, no matter how little they cost.

well i was thinking about the r31 and how much.. I would have to ask around $2k.. which is more than i paid.. but i can't give it away, even if I do know the person :D I've seen a few r31 around, and some that sell for even $3k aren't too much worse off than mine. its got aircon (just needs more gas), sports steering wheel, mp3 face unit, couple of decent kenwood speakers, hardly any rust, loud exhaust, everything works, and it still drives fine. A p-plater would love it.

I'm in no rush.. r32 needs to be on the road b4 i even think about it.

well ze326 i guess don't feel unsafe, but they don't really grip too well.. but considering how you like to spin the tyres they'll be ok for that :D I got about 15,000km and about 12 months out of the rears on my r33. Thats not good value, no matter how little they cost.

well i was thinking about the r31 and how much.. I would have to ask around $2k.. which is more than i paid.. but i can't give it away, even if I do know the person :) I've seen a few r31 around, and some that sell for even $3k aren't too much worse off than mine. its got aircon (just needs more gas), sports steering wheel, mp3 face unit, couple of decent kenwood speakers, hardly any rust, loud exhaust, everything works, and it still drives fine. A p-plater would love it.  

I'm in no rush.. r32 needs to be on the road b4 i even think about it.

I'll giva ya filly dollar for the bottom end in the R31 :D

an old-schooler?

NISSAN SKYLINE 2 DOOR COUPE 1978 model, 2.4L 6 cylinder (L24 carby), 5spd, a/cond, mechanically sound, body straight, little rust, 17in Voltec rims & tyres, black cloth interior, fully instrumentated dash, ideal RB20 or RB30 conversion. GC all round, unreg. -$2350 neg Rochedale South (0404) 270 350 after 6.00pm.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...