Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • chaos

    7164

  • Ska

    5791

  • BelGarion

    3645

  • Nexus9

    3590

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok .. Amandas a dead set champ ... gav on the other hand gets me puzzled most of the time.

I'm having issues with real names atm, im like 'i was spekaing to greg' .. and then she puleld up your profile .. im like his plate is hex something or other..

and shes like .. Oh Chris?

and im like wtF? .. yeah thats him ..

and shes like, yeah i remember most cars by their plates .. (ironic how she remembed my car as 'the hail damaged r32' lol :D :D)

And i was asking her about cross drilled breaks .. and shes like nah you dont need them unless your going to be drifting and racing alot, and im like .. nah i've kinda retired.. my gearbox is screwed from all that :(

Just wondering is i should for out the 500 - 600 for slotted rotors .. or just keep my same ones ..

She told me, $165 including machining and labour and bendix pads..

dont know how true to his word he is though? .. cuz im still kind of up in the air about it, as he told me he checked my tyre pressure, and 2 days later i had to pump it up due to them being flat. :S :S

So i don't know what to think just at the moment, ill give him the benifit of the doubt and assume my tyre was flat from my weekend of madness..

Hmm..

Edit: Im not bagin Gav or anything.. im just making a statement, due to my prevous experiences with workshops ..you wouldnt blame me for being paranoid and suspicious

alright .. ill just check that transaction for you ..

as for piping, i know a member of these forums got some mild steel? piping done for $450

im hoping to possibly do a group buy on piping .. where ill have a word to some workshops and see if they can do X amount of cars for a cheaper price..

Wade - that should be fine by me, i will get my cooler about 2 weeks before you .. but im happy to wait ...

will you be supplying 2 cars? or just the one?

I noticed another member was interested in getting some piping done, so i'll have a word to him too .. and if he will be in that'll make 4 cars.

I will ring around a few work shops on the goldcoast and get prices soon .. i dont know of any workshops in brisbane .. so uhmm yeah :S ... apparently the cheapest workshop on the goldcoast is Ashmore exhaust .. doing it at $450 including pipes, bends.. pretty much all the shit. a member of the forum got his work done there, and he ahs invited me to check out the piping as he lives close by, and i may take up the oppotunity and hopefully get some photos.

However having said that .. i did speak to a 'friend' that said they were shit bla bla bla .. however i think he might be just jumping on the band wagon .. im unsure.

I will like to grab the lads that would be interested in this group purchase and discuss what kind of pipes and that so i have some amunition to speak to a few workshops about.

Nexus - how will i know when they need replacing? ..

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...