Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • chaos

    7164

  • Ska

    5791

  • BelGarion

    3645

  • Nexus9

    3590

Top Posters In This Topic

Your standard turbo is good for maybe 1.2 bar.

1.2bar = ~17psi...

This is a DUMB idea... Hope you plan on helping these people taking your advice with the purchase of a new turbo Glenn...

1bar is pushing the limits... 0.85bar is much more sensible...

Moral of the story... Don't listen to NA drivers :D

1.2bar = ~17psi...

 

This is a DUMB idea...  Hope you plan on helping these people taking your advice with the purchase of a new turbo Glenn...

 

1bar is pushing the limits...  0.85bar is much more sensible...

 

Moral of the story...  Don't listen to NA drivers :)

I thought you couldn't run more than 14psi on a standard R33 turbo. I'm running .8 bar (12psi) at the moment and I've been told I can go a few more with a cooler but I would never go above 14psi. With the AVCR it's safer running higher boost because it doesn't spike as badly as a gated boost controller. :slap:

Another thing that I noticed was said wrong last night about Sams car, is if she knows how to drive it properly, with the PFC/boost controller and FMIC, she should be getting low 13's maybe even high 12's as Steve (4 Doorz) has nicely demonstrated with the same mods achieving 12.98. It might be very high 12's but it's still 12's isn't it.

That's what I'm aiming for. If a family sedan can do it... surely I can :)

:D

*hides*

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...