Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I need some help here. I recenly bought a skyline 93 GTST. I just brought my car to Autobahn today and they list the problem as below which is the most expensive things---Suspension and Brake:

Oil Leak from motor cost $95 just to wash the motor and further cost of changes.

Both outer tie rod ends boots split---$330

Front Catsre Arm Bushes split---$500

Rear Shocks leaking, replace---$535

Brake Pad and Rotor Change---$500

Its like costing me more than $2000 (as i still haven't mentioned others)

My Question is

Does outer tie rod ends boots, Front Catsre Arm bushes and Rear shocks have to be changed? If i don't change, is that still ok to run?? As far as i know it will just affect the wheel alignment and a bit uncomfortable.

Also, Is that worth to pay $90 just to wash the engine and inspect where the oil leak is??? Be Honest, Its not really that serious leaking, so is that common in most of the skyline??

The Brake pad and rotor is ok for me to change as it is the common things...

Please help me...i just want to know is that worth to change the whole suspension system or its ok for me to run normally on the road.

Thankyou thankyou thankyou!!!!!

Boots split (replace at some stage so dirt and grime don't chew out seals and bearings )

Caster arm bushes split ( will affect alignment as it get worse)

Engin bay ( buy some degreser and a weed sprayer from buntings cleans up nice ) probably just your rocket cover gasket

Shocks learning ( replace asap as this will affect traction and can be dangerous !!!)

Thx a lot mate. It is so useful to me. Just the cost is a bit too expensive ($1600 just the suspension parts), I still can drive normally if i don't change the suspension right? I mean the diff will be only a bit hard to turn and control the wheel..but it won't make my car go diff direction worst to worst, is that true???LOL :devil:

Boots split (replace at some stage so dirt and grime don't chew out seals and bearings )

Caster arm bushes split ( will affect alignment as it get worse)

Engin bay ( buy some degreser and a weed sprayer from buntings cleans up nice ) probably just your rocket cover gasket

Shocks learning ( replace asap as this will affect traction and can be dangerous !!!)

If it were me I would look at the tutorial section and do it my self as it will save money . As long as your oil isn't running out weekly I wouldnt worrie for now ! Your leaking shock and caster arm bush would be the first thing I replace asap then fix the leak in the Engin bay and for now just cover the split in your tie rod end boots with gaffa untill you can find some in good nick at the wreckers . I wouldn't advise driving with split caster bushes and leaking shock for long as I said they will only get worse .

Give your Engine bay a good clean with truck degreaser and find out if that leak is bad or not !!!

What a rip bro, I bet you $10 that oil leak is your rear main seal. That's a gearbox-out job. You should replace your shocks if they really are leaking, and replace those bushes, they will greatly improve your handling and ride. It's pretty easy to do as well...

I'd take your car elsewhere as it sounds like your getting ripped.

Tie rod end boots, provided the tie rod end isn't worn you should just be able to fit new boots (alot less than $330), seems like they've quoted you for new tie rod ends? Did they say if they were actually worn?

Front caster rod bushes split, $500? :devil: I did mine recently, the bush kit was $90 trade, maybe $120 retail? Takes half an hour to undo the bolt and two nuts, press out the old bushes (unless it has after-market ones already), fit the new ones and refit the rods to the car.

Rear shocks leaking, get it done. $535 to remove the back seat, shocks, compress and remove the springs and change the shocks over, including parts and labor is reasonable, provided they're fitting a good shock.

Brake pad and rotor change $500? Standard rotors and pads or?

Then a wheel alignment as is always required with suspension/steering work.

Its a big help for me. Thx a lot. The tie rod end boots is quoted as a new one. They said it is split. The Front caster rod bushes..can you tell me what equipment do i need to fix it by myself?? They put the wheel nuts real hard...I kw all the equipment won't be cheap...i mean at least cost me $300 to buy the set. But i just can't unscrew the nuts with a manual spanner.haha,maybe need a electronic one. The Rear Shocks....that's the hard bit...I don't think i can handle this part as it has many steps. The Brake is the standard one as they said...If i can unscrew the wheel, I would rather do it myself as well~

I'd take your car elsewhere as it sounds like your getting ripped.

Tie rod end boots, provided the tie rod end isn't worn you should just be able to fit new boots (alot less than $330), seems like they've quoted you for new tie rod ends? Did they say if they were actually worn?

Front caster rod bushes split, $500? :devil: I did mine recently, the bush kit was $90 trade, maybe $120 retail? Takes half an hour to undo the bolt and two nuts, press out the old bushes (unless it has after-market ones already), fit the new ones and refit the rods to the car.

Rear shocks leaking, get it done. $535 to remove the back seat, shocks, compress and remove the springs and change the shocks over, including parts and labor is reasonable, provided they're fitting a good shock.

Brake pad and rotor change $500? Standard rotors and pads or?

Then a wheel alignment as is always required with suspension/steering work.

If your unsure about any part of it, don't do it. Best bet is to find someone from here in your area with a bit of mechanical knowledge and tools, better off paying them a couple hundred for their time to do the work than have something go wrong. Or take your car to another shop and get it re-quoted (preferably somewhere that regularly works on imports) to see if they can save you a few dollars.

Just get a big long fat torque shifter to break those nuts... I'm pretty scrawny and I managed to break locking wheel lugs that some retard used an impact gun on. All you need is a socket set really. Rear shocks are piss easy btw, not sure what you have to take out in a 33 to get access to strut bolts but I just needed to take off most of the interior boot trims. That's 2 bolts there, and undo another bolt at the bottom of the shock and it just slides out!

Thx for all you guys supporting~I think i will sell it at last. I mean after I pay for 2k in my 93 Skyline, I don't mind, but other parts may start having problem as it is a 93 model and every parts get wear. Do you guys pay high maintainance fee on Skyline series 1 model???

If your unsure about any part of it, don't do it. Best bet is to find someone from here in your area with a bit of mechanical knowledge and tools, better off paying them a couple hundred for their time to do the work than have something go wrong. Or take your car to another shop and get it re-quoted (preferably somewhere that regularly works on imports) to see if they can save you a few dollars.

some of those things are jobs you can to with minimal knowledge and tools.

You could EASILY cut that in half if you have a friend with a couple of basic tools and a spare weekend!

DONT JUST ALLOW YOURSELF TO GET BEND OVER LIKE THAT

I might be wrong, but it sounds like you took your car to Autobarn, which is a parts store. They came out and looked at it, and offered to sell you some parts. Perhaps they exaggerated the costs because they want to err on the safe side. Either way, you need to see a mechanic. If the guy offering to fix your car doesn't have oily hands from working on cars, you need to find help elsewhere.

I agree, the costs estimated are far too high. Castor rod bushes - $100, Steering boots - $40. You could probably get a decent set of second hand rear coilovers for $300 as well, which are best to source from a jap parts wrecker as if they're leaking/blown you can agree exchange (try to make this arrangement prior to purchase).

As for the leaks, just put some cardboard on the floor where you park, monitor the oil and other leaks, and track down their location yourself if wanting to save cash.

Also, do as much research as possible. READ A LOT of technical articles and learn about your car, or you will either:

a) be ripped off by unscrupulous people in the trade who get a sense of how little you know; or

b) have to be spoonfed all the information you need while lacking true peace of mind of how things are running so you could enjoy your driving with safety and confidence.

Hi, just one thing i am worrying about now. My friend is a mechanic and he told me that if i not changing the split outer tie rod ends and the caster arm bushes, my car can lost control very soon (meaning no steering power) and the worst case is the wheel can come off. Is that true???

I might be wrong, but it sounds like you took your car to Autobarn, which is a parts store. They came out and looked at it, and offered to sell you some parts. Perhaps they exaggerated the costs because they want to err on the safe side. Either way, you need to see a mechanic. If the guy offering to fix your car doesn't have oily hands from working on cars, you need to find help elsewhere.

I agree, the costs estimated are far too high. Castor rod bushes - $100, Steering boots - $40. You could probably get a decent set of second hand rear coilovers for $300 as well, which are best to source from a jap parts wrecker as if they're leaking/blown you can agree exchange (try to make this arrangement prior to purchase).

As for the leaks, just put some cardboard on the floor where you park, monitor the oil and other leaks, and track down their location yourself if wanting to save cash.

Also, do as much research as possible. READ A LOT of technical articles and learn about your car, or you will either:

a) be ripped off by unscrupulous people in the trade who get a sense of how little you know; or

b) have to be spoonfed all the information you need while lacking true peace of mind of how things are running so you could enjoy your driving with safety and confidence.

My friend is a mechanic...

How much time can he spend with you and your car?

Let him pore over your report > get the parts > get to work with him: don't just watch him > pay him > you save anyway + you learn heaps. :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...