Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL...does the PFc have a pre-set for 444cc injectors, If you need some numbers for the base tune then i can help you out with some of the numbers from my PFC.

Depending on the turbo you are running our numbers will most likeyl start to differ after 1600rpm.

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm half way there.Rb20det injectors are out GTR ones in and now need to mod the plugs or get new ones,wire in the resister pack and get it tuned.I've been taking pics for you ChrisR32 to.

  93RPS13 said:
do you happen to have pics of the mod'd clip to fit the 13b injectors? Thanks

Its easy to mod the actual injector to be able to take the standard RB20 plug.

The only reason the RB20 plug wont go on is there is a small plastic protrusion in the Inj. socket.

This small lug just needs to be cut away with a stanley knife to make the std plug fit on OK - a fairly quick and easy fix. :)

Roy I have a series 1 RB20DET.The GTR injectors fit the RB20det rail perfect but if you look at the pic the bottom lug on the GTR injectors are off-set more and also has a lug on the inside.I was told they would need modding.

shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=73

  R31 POWER said:
I'm half way there.Rb20det injectors are out GTR ones in and now need to mod the plugs or get new ones,wire in the resister pack and get it tuned.I've been taking pics  for you ChrisR32 to.

Great stuff, look forward to the end result!

http://groups.msn.com/R31Pics/shoebox.msnw?Page=3

http://groups.msn.com/R31Pics/shoebox.msnw?Page=4

Some pics are not that good.It's straight forward once the plenum is off and some tape is peeled off the injector loom.On the GTR injectors I cut off the bottom lug and the lug it where the plug clips(See pics)

I'll have a daigram up soon,thanks Roy :D

It idles and revs fine with the standard ecu but with the PFC it's very very rich and when ever I drive it I gotta put the injector value to about 650,thats still rich but this friday it's booked in to get tuned.

It was a pretty crude picture, but hopefully it helped. Good to see you had no probs installing them...can i ask where you scored your resistor pack from. If we RB20 owners can get a handle on a readily available supply of resistor packs then we are in business as far as cheap injector upgrades go.

  Roy said:
It was a pretty crude picture, but hopefully it helped.  Good to see you had no probs installing them...can i ask where you scored your resistor pack from. If we RB20 owners can get a handle on a readily available supply of resistor packs then we are in business as far as cheap injector upgrades go.

Roy,

I have read up on the message you sent me a while back, and have had a good look at the picks, cheers R31 POWER!

Does anyone else have any other pics or info that would help? What colour is the power wire going to the injector plug?

I have a spare RB20 at home with the injector loom and injectors/rail etc still on it, I might have a go at installing the resistor pack on the spare motor and just swap the whole rail and wiring onto my current motor. Do you guys think this is feasable?

BTW - got my injector pack from Mark Tilbrook, spoke to him at a dyno day the other week, he told me if it works, make him a offer, so at the moment it hasn't cost me a cent :cheers: He was keen to see how it goes

Also, does anyone have a map for there PFC to suit GTR injectors yet?

Chris

  Chris32 said:
Roy,

I have read up on the message you sent me a while back, and have had a good look at the picks, cheers R31 POWER!

Does anyone else have any other pics or info that would help? What colour is the power wire going to the injector plug?

I have a spare RB20 at home with the injector loom and injectors/rail etc still on it, I might have a go at installing the resistor pack on the spare motor and just swap the whole rail and wiring onto my current motor. Do you guys think this is feasable?

BTW - got my injector pack from Mark Tilbrook, spoke to him at a dyno day the other week, he told me if it works, make him a offer, so at the moment it hasn't cost me a cent :D He was keen to see how it goes

Also, does anyone have a map for there PFC to suit GTR injectors yet?

Chris

It would be more agro isntsalling the new harness then it would be too solder in the resistor pack into your existing engine/harness

As for colours, i cant remember, if R31 POWER cant help you out with colours then i should be able to have a sticky at mien next week and tell you. When are you planning on doing it...anyway you dont really need to kn wo the colour, you can identify it by the way they are wired.

As for a PFC map, buy my TD06 and YES i do :cheers: ...otherwise i can help you out with some base parameters to get the thing to idle and run at low rpm, but i suggest you just get the car to a workshop ASAP...The PFC may even have a rough default settin for GTR injectors?!?! I havent had my PFc that long i cant remember :Oops:

That would be cool. I will try and have a look at the spare motor tonight and see what i can work out, if anyone knows that would be cool.

I bit of a base map for low rpm stuff would be cool, chances are I think my PFC is setup for bigger injectors judging by the numbers that are programmed into the fuel map, either way it will be re-tuned to suit, but it would be handy to drive it rather than tow it to the workshop!

Will be looking at doing it by the end of the month hopefully, whenever I can get some time off........:cheers:

Did you guys use the RB20 O-rings or the ones on the original injectors, or did you get new ones?

Bloody good thread this for RB20 owners looking at injector upgrades!!!!! Roy and R31, give yourself a pat on the back!

  Chris32 said:
Bloody good thread this for RB20 owners looking at injector upgrades!!!!! Roy and R31, give yourself a pat on the back!

Id rather Ms Universe bat me off:thumbsup: . I had my injectors cleaned and flow tested, and at the same time new pintle caps and o-rings were supplied

Shit I was going to write what coulor the wires were but though they would be different.

I can't take credit coz it's all Roy,if it was'nt for his diagram he sent I would'nt have GTR injectors in.

I used all GTR stuff like o-rings and those rubber top bits coz all were new not so long ago.

Chris when you do put GTR inj's in there's a injector harness that unplugs from a plug at the front.It powers the 3 rear injectors and that air motor thingy.We cut the 2 wires going to that motor thingy and used them for the injectors.Read futher.

It's hard to explain but the power feed to the injectors go like this.The main power wire then branches to 4 wires and then 2 wires on that un-pluggable injector harness.So instead of running 2 new wires to those in jectors we used those air motor wires.Plus that plug could be used and it still looks factory.And those 2 wires from that air motor we joined to the same wires that are straight above it in the loom,god knows why nissan did'nt do that before LOL

I think I might of confused you Chris and if so tell me what bits you don't get.

  R31 POWER said:
Shit I was going to write what coulor the wires were but though they would be different.

I can't take credit coz it's all Roy,if it was'nt for his diagram he sent I would'nt have GTR injectors in.

I used all GTR stuff like o-rings and those rubber top bits coz all were new not so long ago.

Chris when you do put GTR inj's in there's a injector harness that unplugs from a plug at the front.It powers the 3 rear injectors and that air motor thingy.We cut the 2 wires going to that motor thingy and used them for the injectors.Read futher.

It's hard to explain but the power feed to the injectors go like this.The main power wire then branches to 4 wires and then 2 wires on that un-pluggable injector harness.So instead of running 2 new wires to those in jectors we used those air motor wires.Plus that plug could be used and it still looks factory.And those 2 wires from that air motor we joined to the same wires that are straight above it in the loom,god knows why nissan did'nt do that before LOL

I think I might of confused you Chris and if so tell me what bits you don't get.

I think I have got the general Idea now - correct me if i am wrong

Wire in the power wire for the resistor pack before it branches off into seperate wires. Connect the seperate wires of the resistor pack with the power wire going to each injector

Is this correct? Do you ahve to run new wires from the resistor pack to the injectors or will the old wire be ok

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 馃檪 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
  • Create New...