Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I'll reset it tonight and see what difference that makes, to be fair I have played with quite a few settings :)

To be honest, I'd expect that even "crappy" kit lenses should smash a basic point and shooter without needing to be a pro photographer to make it so.

We'll see what resetting the settings does. I might also do some testing with the 55-200

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

to be honest, i dont see a problem with those shots. The problem might be the picture you see isn't what you were trying to capture, or your expectations from the camera in auto mode.

There's more settings, more options, more information. It's kinda like the difference between describing something to someone who knows nothing, or describing it to an expert.

Like explaining a car to your girlfriend (Point and shoot) It's a red car and it's new.

'cool'

Or to an expert it's a red car and it's news

'what make model?'

what year?

what mods?

power output?

RWD?

blah blah

you need to fill in more blanks to paint a richer picture or tell a more detailed story.

Yeah I get what you're saying.

Am I the only one who thinks that on "actual size" the engine bay of the car doesn't look that clear or that the pictures of the book look a little soft around the edges? Surely that's not being too picky?

I guess I was under the impression that given the camera has a much wider ange of settings to choose from it would be smart enough to outdo a point and shoot on auto in most situations.

Am I the only one who thinks that on "actual size" the engine bay of the car doesn't look that clear or that the pictures of the book look a little soft around the edges? Surely that's not being too picky?

By actual size you mean when zoomed into 1:1? I'll be amazed if you can find any kit lens (or any P&S) that can produce sharp clear pics at 1:1 crop

I guess I was under the impression that given the camera has a much wider ange of settings to choose from it would be smart enough to outdo a point and shoot on auto in most situations.

Yes it can - maybe do exactly what you said - do some side by side auto tests (making sure settings are reset) - then go from there

OR if you care that much you could always do something crazy like getting a good lens for $137

then you can do some side by side comparisons at 50mm between the 50mm lens and the 18-55mm kit lens :)

The dog and car shot were daytime and well lit, the book shot was around 6pm but under the pergola.

I've found that without the flash It's almost impossible to get a good shot in low lit indoor scenarios so far, I wasn't overly impressed by the fill of the flash either, and by fill I mean how deep into the photo it can light up. (Trying to take photos of someone doing a speech from a respectable distance for example)

But we'll get to that :)

Your file download should start immediately.

If it does not start automatically, please click here to start the download process.

man just host pics with photobucket and copy IMG tags in here.

man just host pics with photobucket and copy IMG tags in here.

i actually prefer file hosting over image sharing, at least they don't fuck with your photo and ruin the metadata etc.

No idea about flickr as I dont use it.. But never had a problem with photobucket ever.

Dan - just open up image in lightroom or photoshop. Resize to 1024 max width or height.. then apply slight sharpen and save as srgb jpeg.

Perhaps your uploading rgb format images. If thats the case then colours will look off. srgb is best view on web browsers.

Then upload to photobucket (which is free). Then just copy the IMG tag link in here. Saves people clicking on links and downloading each image.

my 2 cents.

Edit: how is flickr altering your image? As in what happens?? Millions of people use flickr so doubt it is.

Edited by siddr20

Happy to do that next time, but I'm not about to go back and do it for these ones unless the consensus is it's killing people horribly to click the current links lol

there's that laziness coming out..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...