Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a nistune comp going in my 31 and it'll be on the dyno later this week. Does any one know if it possible to give it two separate tunings and how hard it is to switch between? ie: can i tune it for high performance on one setting and max economy on another, and is it as simple as flicking a switch while i'm driving or when the car is off? or would i need a controller to plug in or my laptop? I'm sure this is covered somewhere, couldn't find it at a glance so can any one tell me or point me in the right direction? cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343495-nistune/
Share on other sites

IMO there's no need, the high load high rpm cells will be right for the high performance and the low load low rpm cells will be right for max economy. You choose what you get via the right foot!

If you wanted two different tunes you'd have to get the nistune software and a consult cable and install the tune each time you wanted to change.

EDIT:

Oh, and http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...E8-t332217.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343495-nistune/#findComment-5538458
Share on other sites

Once you get your final tune I can probably help you on switching tunes.

The ECU can be setup with a security feature or a different tunes for different fuel etc.

Let me know what the part number is and I'll double check.

I can run up to 4 different tunes in the R31 ECU and most switchable on the fly.

Kind regards

Sime

Got a nistune comp going in my 31 and it'll be on the dyno later this week. Does any one know if it possible to give it two separate tunings and how hard it is to switch between? ie: can i tune it for high performance on one setting and max economy on another, and is it as simple as flicking a switch while i'm driving or when the car is off? or would i need a controller to plug in or my laptop? I'm sure this is covered somewhere, couldn't find it at a glance so can any one tell me or point me in the right direction? cheers.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343495-nistune/#findComment-5538470
Share on other sites

im always putting 98octane fuel in it any nothing else. I work at a servo so it's never out of my way to get it. So i don't want different tunes for different fuels. Is it worthwhile trying to tune it for better economy or should i just drive with a lighter foot?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343495-nistune/#findComment-5538494
Share on other sites

im always putting 98octane fuel in it any nothing else. I work at a servo so it's never out of my way to get it. So i don't want different tunes for different fuels. Is it worthwhile trying to tune it for better economy or should i just drive with a lighter foot?

I think it largely depends on who has tuned it.

but still ends up back with the Drivers ability to control the foot as well !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343495-nistune/#findComment-5538772
Share on other sites

As you have stated, there is no need.

A good tune will be economic when you are light on the throttle and have the power when you boot it.

Running multiple tunes would suit running different fuels (as mentioned above) or in a dedicated track car where the team may want to switch between tunes for different tracks/setups.

Stick the the one tune, goodluck with it :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343495-nistune/#findComment-5539630
Share on other sites

If boost is held constant then the best performance tune and the best economy tune will be the same.

Down low you'll have as much timing and as lean as it can handle eg off boost and with O2 feedback, up high you'll spend 2% of the time there if it is daily driven so it doesn't really matter how it is tuned.

Ask nistune themselves who they recommend to tune it.

Edited by Rolls
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343495-nistune/#findComment-5539691
Share on other sites

im always putting 98octane fuel in it any nothing else. I work at a servo so it's never out of my way to get it. So i don't want different tunes for different fuels. Is it worthwhile trying to tune it for better economy or should i just drive with a lighter foot?

there is no point, it should be tuned for maximum economy and best power in the one tune. the only reason to have multiple tunes is fuel changes. Nistune cant run multiple maps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343495-nistune/#findComment-5540187
Share on other sites

cheers for all the replies fulla's. It makes it easier on me now. Just gotta make sure i take it easy now then.

Nick is busting out some pretty good tunes lately... As everyone else said there is no real difference between a good power/economy tune as the afr's are the same for both (or there abouts).

The best way would be to install a electronic boost controller with hi/low boost switch... low boost is eco mode, hi boost power mode.

Power= air + fuel. Less power used = less fuel used- so just don't drive so hard.

Or install a throttle stop... ha h ah ha.

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343495-nistune/#findComment-5541188
Share on other sites

oops, i didn't mean the throttle stop. i meant how hard is it to put in the electronic boost controller. or how much would that cost?

It's probably one hours labour for Marty to install it. Electronic boost controllers start around $400.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343495-nistune/#findComment-5542355
Share on other sites

I have a dual stage boost contoller in mine with 7psi & 17psi for the exact reason as you want but its not needed as everyone has said before me. tunes it as high as you can go with boost/economy and use your right foot as the tuner.

i learnt the hard way as my switch is alway set to high now...

Dazza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343495-nistune/#findComment-5543317
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...