Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am after this part for my R34 as mine has a hole in it.

Picture154.jpg

Let me know if you have one or know someone who does, and how much you want. Thanks.

Hey bud if your in Melbourne I might know someone that can make you a new one, I just burnt a hole though the same pipe in my R32 at a track day. Found a guy that will repair it, I just need to remove it from the car & take it to him.

Question for you...... How much was involved in removing this from your car? Did you remove it from under the car or did you take all turbo piping off and get it from the top?? I haven't had much of a look at it but its high on my 'to do list'.

I think he quoted me bout $60-80 with a new heat protection sleeve on it. (plus re-gassing), not sure if the price was for just the one pipe.

Cheers

Rob

Please scrounge in the bin if it's not already too late :(

Rob, not sure how hard it was to get the pipe off, the auto electrician who was looking at some other things took it off for me. Said he couldn't replace the hose because of the crimp connection so figured it'd be easier if I just found a replacement. I don't reckon they would've gotten under the car to get it off. I'm not in melb unfortunately or i'd take you up on the offer.

Please scrounge in the bin if it's not already too late :(

Rob, not sure how hard it was to get the pipe off, the auto electrician who was looking at some other things took it off for me. Said he couldn't replace the hose because of the crimp connection so figured it'd be easier if I just found a replacement. I don't reckon they would've gotten under the car to get it off. I'm not in melb unfortunately or i'd take you up on the offer.

All good Lithius, I had a crack at removing it last night, had to pull most of the intake piping, AFM, airbox and a few other things to get it out. You were right, didn't have to get under the car. I took the damaged one into the wreckers and managed to pick one up for $40 , all I need to do now is put some extra thermal sheathing on it and modify the bracket so its sits further away from the O2 sensor. Still going to see the guy who was going to repair it so I can get some new o-rings and get him to regass it also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...