Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am after this part for my R34 as mine has a hole in it.

Picture154.jpg

Let me know if you have one or know someone who does, and how much you want. Thanks.

Hey bud if your in Melbourne I might know someone that can make you a new one, I just burnt a hole though the same pipe in my R32 at a track day. Found a guy that will repair it, I just need to remove it from the car & take it to him.

Question for you...... How much was involved in removing this from your car? Did you remove it from under the car or did you take all turbo piping off and get it from the top?? I haven't had much of a look at it but its high on my 'to do list'.

I think he quoted me bout $60-80 with a new heat protection sleeve on it. (plus re-gassing), not sure if the price was for just the one pipe.

Cheers

Rob

Please scrounge in the bin if it's not already too late :(

Rob, not sure how hard it was to get the pipe off, the auto electrician who was looking at some other things took it off for me. Said he couldn't replace the hose because of the crimp connection so figured it'd be easier if I just found a replacement. I don't reckon they would've gotten under the car to get it off. I'm not in melb unfortunately or i'd take you up on the offer.

Please scrounge in the bin if it's not already too late :(

Rob, not sure how hard it was to get the pipe off, the auto electrician who was looking at some other things took it off for me. Said he couldn't replace the hose because of the crimp connection so figured it'd be easier if I just found a replacement. I don't reckon they would've gotten under the car to get it off. I'm not in melb unfortunately or i'd take you up on the offer.

All good Lithius, I had a crack at removing it last night, had to pull most of the intake piping, AFM, airbox and a few other things to get it out. You were right, didn't have to get under the car. I took the damaged one into the wreckers and managed to pick one up for $40 , all I need to do now is put some extra thermal sheathing on it and modify the bracket so its sits further away from the O2 sensor. Still going to see the guy who was going to repair it so I can get some new o-rings and get him to regass it also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...