Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm starting to collect parts for the rebuilt of my RB26 R32.

We all know the oil pump weakness. However, from what I read, the real problem is not the pump itselft but rather the crank collar and the harmonic damper.

1) I should be hitting the 500whp max 550whp.

2) Will be doing some track and drag ( maybe once a month)

3) Already have an ATI 1000hp damper

When people say keep it off the rev limiter, what is the limit? 8k or 9k? My rev limiter is set at 7.4k and doesn't bother me much. So, I think this won't be a problem either.

I simply think that a greddy oil pump + the needed bigger pan is simply overkill for my built, type of use.

Crankshaft ?

Should I go with a brand new n1 crank for 600$ or get a crank collar for 300$ ? I think it's better to change to a brand new crank but will I still need to modify the new crank or it's a simple drop-in solution?

Thanks for any help, feedback ! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344781-n1-oil-pump-and-crankshaft-question/
Share on other sites

you get cranks over there for 600? :)

new crank would be best as you not only have to fit the collar, you also need it checked.

and when people say to keep it 'off' the limiter, its exactly what it means. be that 7.4, 8or 9k.

bashing the limiter will cause stress on the pump gears and eventually it'll shatter.

so just because yours is lower don't think you are safe.

for 500rwhp though you'll still likely be making power at 7.4 so a low limiter will hurt power band.

you get cranks over there for 600? :rofl:

new crank would be best as you not only have to fit the collar, you also need it checked.

and when people say to keep it 'off' the limiter, its exactly what it means. be that 7.4, 8or 9k.

bashing the limiter will cause stress on the pump gears and eventually it'll shatter.

so just because yours is lower don't think you are safe.

for 500rwhp though you'll still likely be making power at 7.4 so a low limiter will hurt power band.

And do I need a new BNR34 cas ?

http://www.nissanparts.cc/catalog/?section=958#3231 650$ but I get a lil discount because I'm paying many parts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...