Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Roughly a year ago I completed a motor conversion into my 4 door 34, which I also converted to manual. I used a neo 25det from a wgc34 stagea (automatic) Which runs beautifully....

My problem is up until a few weeks ago i was running straight of the actuator 5psi. I now bought an older style electronic boost controller and have upped it to 7psi which also runs mint. Now...the minute I go over 7psi i get the typical skyline 5000-6000 miss but in my endeavours to fix it I have come up empty handed...

I have done all the usual, New walbro fuel pump, gapped plugs to 0.8, running wasted spark kit, checked all lines for leaks etc...and I have also spent weeks looking over topics here and still have nothing,

I was wondering if you guys might shed some light on the situation.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344895-r34-conversion-help/
Share on other sites

Whether its the usual slight hesitation or severe R&R it can be fixed by getting a Nistune chip and a good tune. Wasted spark is not popluar these days - was there anything actually wrong with your coils?

Thanks for the replies guys, my mate has the exactally the same mods as me in his 34 and it runs perfectly with no missing at all.. I dont have coils due to the fact that I am running the wasted spark kit,

I am not hitting r and r and I am looking at possibly nistune in the future but an identical car with identical mods and mine missfiring, and his isnt leads me to believe that this is curable without nistune for now...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...