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Na Supra Vs Na R34 Gt Vs Autech

kubiakGTR

By kubiakGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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R34 -_- Community Regular

R34 -_-

Posted
Posted (edited)

I duno about other r34's but mine is very smooth to drive around town, and if you want to hoon around like every other retard it does 0-40 in 1st gear pretty fast with great response.

Custom stainless steel intake with pod and 2 1/4 inch exhaust with wide rear tires = pretty good power in low - mid range

Edited by R34 -_-
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KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted
Pick the cr you like the best...not like you drive it everywhere at WOT and 7k rpm.....for street duties the Supra gets my vote simple because of the bigger motor, same brakes as the turbo model etc...so later, just throw a GT42 at it and run 9's

Only the SZ-R (which is substantially more expensive) and some SZs with the big brake option have the same brakes as the turbo models. Mine are piddly little 2/1 pot. Word of warning, IF you do decide to go the Supra route with the intention of turbo charging it later, buy the SZ-R, not just because of the improved brakes, diff, etc, but most importantly because it has the Getrag 6spd. The 5spd will bust at around 250rwkw which isn't much in the 2J world.

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

You would be better off looking at the overalls of a car...SSS pulsars are by far the fastest affordable P plater car going around because we know a lotus or somehing is just a joke :)

With my GTS-4 its was pretty slow so i rebored and honed it out too a 2.7L ( + compleate engine rebuild) and a exedy heavy duty clutch (thats all it needed) and it was already faster than a NA supra by far and lots of other cars but thats only speed. The supra's brakes out do NA skyline brakes two times over so if you come through corners the supra was always entering faster. But then again once im off my P's a rb26 just drops right into the car with the added adition of wiring looms and a ecu so its just what suits me not whats best on papper.

Just giving examples, you should buy what best suits you, not what is the best on papper.

R34 -_- Community Regular

R34 -_-

Posted
Posted
You would be better off looking at the overalls of a car...SSS pulsars are by far the fastest affordable P plater car going around because we know a lotus or somehing is just a joke :)

With my GTS-4 its was pretty slow so i rebored and honed it out too a 2.7L ( + compleate engine rebuild) and a exedy heavy duty clutch (thats all it needed) and it was already faster than a NA supra by far and lots of other cars but thats only speed. The supra's brakes out do NA skyline brakes two times over so if you come through corners the supra was always entering faster. But then again once im off my P's a rb26 just drops right into the car with the added adition of wiring looms and a ecu so its just what suits me not whats best on papper.

Just giving examples, you should buy what best suits you, not what is the best on papper.

How much power did you get from the rebore + hone??

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

80thou over will put you in the water jacket...would redefine "floating" wrist pins lol.

A simple overbore wont net you anymore than a couple of horsepower, so unless you did a heap of headwork/cams/ecu/compression etc.

So my guess is the motor was Fubar so it felt quicker when it was running properly.

As for the supra brakes, only the 1996-> got the big 4 pots, the early ones has the same brakes as my soarer/non-turbo supras.

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted (edited)
80thou over will put you in the water jacket...would redefine "floating" wrist pins lol.

A simple overbore wont net you anymore than a couple of horsepower, so unless you did a heap of headwork/cams/ecu/compression etc.

So my guess is the motor was Fubar so it felt quicker when it was running properly.

As for the supra brakes, only the 1996-> got the big 4 pots, the early ones has the same brakes as my soarer/non-turbo supras.

Well 40thou is the norm, I personally know people who have gone custom 60thou, and I have seen 80thou RB26 pistons for sale before (which you would need for RB26 crank) but have no experience with them of course.

link; http://www.trust-power.com/06new/e2004_09/041101_greddy.html

Thin cyl walls are never a good idea for high power FI, but I doubt it would be an issue for a well made N/A. Problem with this is you would need custom pistons (probably RB25DE dome with RB26 pin height) or you would lose any capacity benefit due to compression loss.

Anyway, off topic.

Edited by SKiT_R31
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

The problem going with 88mm slugs is the bore degradation after nearly 20 years of use, if you pop the welch plugs out you will see how badly the outside of he bores are rusted.

So If I were to go 80thou over (88mm) I would x-ray the shit outta the block so see how much meat there is, some blocks wont even take 60thou due to core shift when being cast, Or I would sleeve the block.

E.g 10-15 years ago you could take a small block ford (windsor or cleveland) out 60thou, these days no-one goes past 40 because a fair bit of the bores have rusted away and you will more than likely hole the bores, generally towards the bottom of the liner as they are thinner than up the top.

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah I know what you mean, I replaced the head on a mates RB25DET because it blew the gasket (well so I thought), but in actual fact the coolant channel had corroded into the combustion chamber couple cylinders (just on the edge of the gasket)...

The older crowd that push the old 8's to the limits are the most known with these issues, just keep going through blocks until one sticks.

But yeah, as long as you have a good block to start with it wont be an issue - while x raying is the safest option, you should be able to tell the condition of the block just by looking at the visible parts, if there is obvious signs or corrosion, then give that extra 60cc a miss...

Edited by SKiT_R31

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