Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

the 4WD light on the RHS of the M35 dash - what does it mean when it's on? Is that normal or a fault situation?

I bought a GReddy infometer the other day and of course with my luck, it didn't just work when it was plugged in ;) .

Works great on my daughter's Micra though....

The culprit is a wire that was removed from the OBD2 connector that the meter plugs into. This wire has been taken out and plugged into another wire (heading into the dark under dash) by a previous owner.

I disconnected it and only drove the car for about 50m before I realised it felt like when the snow button is engaged, ie I could feel the front diff working. When I looked the 4WD light was on. Stopped the car, plugged the rogue wire back into its aftermarket connector and the light went out and the car drove like "normal", ie feels like RWD.

I would like to confirm if the light is on for all/most people and if what I have is essentially a way to make the car RWD. If that's the case it's easy to rectify and get my new meter working.

Thanks, Leon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345644-4wd-light-on-dash-of-m35/
Share on other sites

Hi guys

the 4WD light on the RHS of the M35 dash - what does it mean when it's on? Is that normal or a fault situation?

I bought a GReddy infometer the other day and of course with my luck, it didn't just work when it was plugged in ;) .

Works great on my daughter's Micra though....

The culprit is a wire that was removed from the OBD2 connector that the meter plugs into. This wire has been taken out and plugged into another wire (heading into the dark under dash) by a previous owner.

I disconnected it and only drove the car for about 50m before I realised it felt like when the snow button is engaged, ie I could feel the front diff working. When I looked the 4WD light was on. Stopped the car, plugged the rogue wire back into its aftermarket connector and the light went out and the car drove like "normal", ie feels like RWD.

I would like to confirm if the light is on for all/most people and if what I have is essentially a way to make the car RWD. If that's the case it's easy to rectify and get my new meter working.

Thanks, Leon.

Hi Leon

the 4WD light only comes on in the process of starting my car. It goes off as soon as it starts and does not turn on again, not even with the Snow or Syncro modes engaged.

Sounds like you may have a device to split the drive front to rear.

Cheers

Andy

We I can only go from my experience, and I have a different 4wd system to you. When I pop the fuse out of mine (I guess its the same thing as you disconnecting the wire) I get the same outcome with the 4wd light. 50 mts down the road it pops on. HOWEVER I have the opposite effect. when the fuse is pulled the car puts up the 4wd light, and the car only operates in RWD.

So for me- 4wd light = FAULT, and your only getting 2wd

I don't know if that'll help you at all. maybe you'll have to put the whole thing on stands, or a hoist, and figure it out.

Yeah mine sometimes comes on. When its on the car is rwd. Usually I just turn the ignition off and then on again and the light is gone and its 4wd.

Most common problem is low 4wd fluid in the attessa system. just pop the little box out of the right hand side of your boot and check.

It uses a synthetic transmission fluid i beleive.

Ben.

We I can only go from my experience, and I have a different 4wd system to you. When I pop the fuse out of mine (I guess its the same thing as you disconnecting the wire) I get the same outcome with the 4wd light. 50 mts down the road it pops on. HOWEVER I have the opposite effect. when the fuse is pulled the car puts up the 4wd light, and the car only operates in RWD.

So for me- 4wd light = FAULT, and your only getting 2wd

I don't know if that'll help you at all. maybe you'll have to put the whole thing on stands, or a hoist, and figure it out.

Thanks Andy and Alex.

So discounting some small difference to 4WD systems between models, it seems 4WD light on = fault.

It's funny that, in Alex's case, light on = RWD and I felt that the car seemed to operate in snow mode with my light on and with the light off seems to be RWD....

Maybe the previous owners' mod was two fold; 1) make car perform essentially in RWD & 2) keep the light off.

Anyway, thanks for your replies. They have been very helpful.

I'm going to T off this wire and put a connection back into the OBD2 connector to get my InfoMeter working and thus leave the car performing as it was.

Next chance I get to have the car up on stands I'll see exactly what happens with & without the wire connected.

Cheers for that, Leon.

Yeah mine sometimes comes on. When its on the car is rwd. Usually I just turn the ignition off and then on again and the light is gone and its 4wd.

Most common problem is low 4wd fluid in the attessa system. just pop the little box out of the right hand side of your boot and check.

It uses a synthetic transmission fluid i beleive.

Ben.

Thanks Ben, fluid levels are all good.

I'm pretty sure this is an electrical/electronic modification and does seem counter intuitive, given what I feel and what the light is doing. ie light on = 4WD, light off = 2WD.

Also worthy of note, when I use the snow button I don't get the orange 4WD light, just the green "locked differential" looking light.

Is that what you get?

Cheers, Leon.

mine does it too, i also turn ignition off and back on again to clear the problem.

yes the 4WD light being on means there IS a problem. the green (orange on ours) 'sync' light is normal during snow and sync modes.

now if only i could get rid of the check engine light on mine lol

It's funny that, in Alex's case, light on = RWD and I felt that the car seemed to operate in snow mode with my light on and with the light off seems to be RWD....

Maybe the previous owners' mod was two fold; 1) make car perform essentially in RWD & 2) keep the light off.

Its going to be pretty easy to tell if it is just rwd... Since you have an open diff/no LSD, plant it at low speed in the wet /low grip situation. If that rear inside wheel lights up, then your rwd. Thats what I found. If it hooks up and storms away, then your awd-ing.

In rwd, mine will just spin it forever... bit sad really, needs a LSD. But in awd, it will allow for a little chirp in the rear, and then just hooks up and shoots away.

edit- in safe and private area only.... don't be stupid :(

Edited by PN-Mad
Its going to be pretty easy to tell if it is just rwd... Since you have an open diff/no LSD, plant it at low speed in the wet /low grip situation. If that rear inside wheel lights up, then your rwd. Thats what I found. If it hooks up and storms away, then your awd-ing.

In rwd, mine will just spin it forever... bit sad really, needs a LSD. But in awd, it will allow for a little chirp in the rear, and then just hooks up and shoots away.

edit- in safe and private area only.... don't be stupid :)

I'm always safe :(

Well, I bought an old OBD2 connectror from a wrecker and butchered it to remove one of the pins. After splicing it into the "special loop" that mine has and putting the pin in the connector where I believe it should go (pin 14) my new InfoMeter works properly and the 4WD light remains off.

Re real wheel spinning in the wet (RWD only mode), I've NOT been able to acheive that. Is it because your car has more torque down low than mine? I think the turbo motors are limited in 1st gear.

Either that or I am running in full 4WD mode. But that doesn't agree with what I feel when I pull the connector, which is the same as pushing the snow button.

I think your suggestion of putting it up on stands will be the only conclusive way of telling.

Cheers, Leon.

My datsun with about 3 donkey powers could light a rear wheel in the wet. Come on, if its rwd, you really should be able to get some slip.

Iain, I'll let you know when I had it on the dyno, it had a perfectly flat torque curve thank you very much. You keep on talking but all I can hear is Lag... and a farting noise from a blocked BOV. :/

my BOV is fine thanks mate :(

actually it not :banana: lol

i had a failed suspension install attempt last week so i wont be making it to this weeks thursday meet. when the suspension is done, ill come along!

haha i didnt have my trolley jack so i couldnt get one end of the car in the air, only one corner. the sway bar prevented the strut from dropping far enough for me to remove the old one and replace with new one

also didnt have a socket large enough to remove the bolts that hold the brake caliper bracked onto the knuckle :(

i now have my trolley jack back, and ill be buying more sockets! just need to find a day to do all this crap!

  • 5 months later...

Well done Leon..

There must be an aftermarket controller on your car some where to alter the front / rear torque split.

Cheers

Andy

I'm reviving an old thread of mine that I found when searching for info on torque split controllers.

I've had most of my dash out a number of times in recent months & not come across anything resembling an aftermarket controller.

Since changing the exhaust (& with some km's for the ECU to learn new parameters) the rear tyres are lighting up too easily for what I think a full 4WD system should allow.

Is this what others have found and I'm expecting too much from my attessa or should I not be able to do this with just an exhaust change?

Was wondering if the torque split controllers sold on E-bay for GTRs and C34's work on M35's? (Might just ask the seller & see if he knows.)

As fun as it can be, I really need more front & less rear torque.

Edited by Commsman

In the dry it is not possible to spin the rears unless going around a corner but in the WET, that is another story. I can regularly get the rears to spin in 1st mostly as the revs build through 2800 - 3300rpm and then the fronts grab and the car hauls away.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...