Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

My car is an R33.

I've looked but I cannot find any info.

I noticed the other day that when I flicked on the air con a red light came up on the right hand side of the dash. It had what looks like heat waves coming off a pipe like figure.

It only comes on when I turn the air con on. When I turn it off it disappears. Is it somethin to worry about? I wondered if it was some kind of exhaust sensor that has been disconnected when I had my 3" put in.

cheers,

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345789-red-light-on-dash/
Share on other sites

Sounds like the catalytic converter temperature warning light, PowerFC use it to indiciate engine knocking

Oh ok, would make sense because I took out the cat... being from NZ.

power fc uses the check engine light to indicate knock by flashing it several times in a short space of time

if its the cat convertor overheat warning then there may be a wiring issue or maybe it was just unplugged when something was done/replaced

power fc uses the check engine light to indicate knock by flashing it several times in a short space of time

if its the cat convertor overheat warning then there may be a wiring issue or maybe it was just unplugged when something was done/replaced

The light will come steady on and maybe flick off for a bit after a while, and then turn on again. I have a Z32 computer installed not a powerfc.

Yeah that's fine was just correcting the previous post.

That's a bit strange. The sensor should bring up a warning (that red light) when excessive temperature is noted in the cat. Sometimes this happens with a stock exhaust when the car dumps fuel into the engine at higher then normal boost levels. But since yours has a 3 inch exhaust I wouldn't think so

Sounds more like a wiring problem, or perhaps the sensor is old and as the wires heat up it's creating to much resistance, but again that doesn't explain why it's only doing it when you turn the air con on. Unless your z32 ecu is throwing to much fuel in when the air con is on, perhaps putting it into a rich and retard mode, I'm not sure.

Does the car drive ok when the ac is on and it does this? Maybe just check the sensor and wiring under the car just as a start. But it doesn't sound like anything to be concerned about

Yeah that's fine was just correcting the previous post.

That's a bit strange. The sensor should bring up a warning (that red light) when excessive temperature is noted in the cat. Sometimes this happens with a stock exhaust when the car dumps fuel into the engine at higher then normal boost levels. But since yours has a 3 inch exhaust I wouldn't think so

Sounds more like a wiring problem, or perhaps the sensor is old and as the wires heat up it's creating to much resistance, but again that doesn't explain why it's only doing it when you turn the air con on. Unless your z32 ecu is throwing to much fuel in when the air con is on, perhaps putting it into a rich and retard mode, I'm not sure.

Does the car drive ok when the ac is on and it does this? Maybe just check the sensor and wiring under the car just as a start. But it doesn't sound like anything to be concerned about

Hey thanks for the reply.

I will be seeing my tuner this weekend for other reasons, but I can check it out with him to see if it is the result of his tune. The car drove fine when i had it on A/C but I never really left it on for a long period once I had noticed it.

I don't even have a cat anymore so I would say that is nothing important also. It is just weird with the air con turning.

cheers,

Dan

probably just a wiring fault then. Might just be earthing the wire for the cat sensor when the AC compressor is cutting in and out or something. Just check to see what they did to the sensor when they replaced your exhaust

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...