Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have had a bit of a browse, havent really found anything

Im looking to simplify the interior of my R, being race only and all. Ive already taken un-neccesary shite out from behind (speakers and the like)

Wondering if anyone has come across some replacement fibreglass / carbon fibre trims to replace the stock ones. Obviously they would need to have a couple of stock bits added to them (window switches and maybe a door handle surround)

Or on another tangent, has anyone just gone and made something up themselves

Any ideas will be taken here, just looking to simplify yet not lose functionality

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345803-alternative-door-trims/
Share on other sites

Not really worth getting man. When you get your cage done your cross bar will hit on them. Better off going a full carbon/fiberglass door later on when you get the cage and zip tie the controls to the cage.

Not really worth getting man. When you get your cage done your cross bar will hit on them. Better off going a full carbon/fiberglass door later on when you get the cage and zip tie the controls to the cage.

REALLY DEPENDS ON THE DOOR SKIN U CHOOSE. u can get get full flat ones that r not an issue and sit way closer to the door shell than the standard skins....

oh really? thats kinda gay if thats the case. still keen to have a look

craig never mentioned anything about door trims being an issue when it came to cages :s

there are plenty of cars running cross bars with the standard door trims, so if u get a carbon fibre one (many of them dont have the bottom posket like the standard door skins) so they r 3 inches or more closer to the doors than factory.....

+ if u r running racing seats (im assuming fixed backs coz of the race car status) then the base of them is also way thinner than standard style recliners so u find more room then again...

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...