Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you are driving along in your turbo car, there is no vacuum leaks on your car, your turbo has an actuator of 0.7 bar, when you accelerate through the rev range your boost sits steady at 0.7 bar until you get to about 5800rpm, and then your boost starts rising out of nowhere and you end up with 1.3 bar of boost by the time you get to 7500, you have no boost controller at all just a hose from compressor housing to actuator.

What is the problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346108-overboosting/
Share on other sites

its a gt starlet, it has a blitz turbo on it with a stock actuator, there is an intercooler bigger injectors but thats about it nothing that should effect the boost, the dump pipe is not split.

the stock boost solenoid has been completely bypassed (it was doing the same thing with it anyway) and boost control should be soley off the actuator at 0.7 bar, which it does until it gets to about 5800 and then its like the wastegate is either closing or not opening far enough to keep that pressure and the boost climbs drastically till well over 1 bar if u let it.

i dont know what other info to give you guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346108-overboosting/#findComment-5573979
Share on other sites

When did it last work?

Pretty much something is restricting how much the actuator can open the gate - so in my opinion it's either boost controller (which you don't have), actuator itself, actuator rod preload, or gate fouling on something. Well also, could be that the internal gate simply isn't big enough, but I doubt that.

If you can get to the turbo/actuator while it's on the car, I'd recommend disconnecting the actuator rod from the wastegate. Once it's off, ensure that the wastegate can open and close freely. Also ensure that when you are putting the actuator rod back onto the wastegate, you need to pull the rod out against the spring roughly 3mm. If any more, then overboost is possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346108-overboosting/#findComment-5574007
Share on other sites

you are driving along in your turbo car, there is no vacuum leaks on your car, your turbo has an actuator of 0.7 bar, when you accelerate through the rev range your boost sits steady at 0.7 bar until you get to about 5800rpm, and then your boost starts rising out of nowhere and you end up with 1.3 bar of boost by the time you get to 7500, you have no boost controller at all just a hose from compressor housing to actuator.

Since you say boost is steady at 0.7 (so, lets say its at 0.7 from say 3000-5800) this indicates the boost control is working, but then runs out of ability to bypass enough through the wastegate at 5800. So i'd check that the wastegate flap can open the whole way (if you have a hand pump just connect it to the actuator and watch it move as you add pressure). It may be fouling/getting stuck part way open. Other than that it may simply not be big enough, but usually jap turbos have well sized gates....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346108-overboosting/#findComment-5574032
Share on other sites

What did it last work?

Pretty much something is restricting how much the actuator can open the gate - so in my opinion it's either boost controller (which you don't have), actuator itself, actuator rod preload, or gate fouling on something. Well also, could be that the internal gate simply isn't big enough, but I doubt that.

If you can get to the turbo/actuator while it's on the car, I'd recommend disconnecting the actuator rod from the wastegate. Once it's off, ensure that the wastegate can open and close freely. Also ensure that when you are putting the actuator rod back onto the wastegate, you need to pull the rod out against the spring roughly 3mm. If any more, then overboost is possible.

this turbo has just gone on with this actuator already on it when i bought it, the turbo has just been rebuilt but clearly the actuator is questionable, i will follow your advice and see if theres anything fishy going on with the actuator or something blocking the gate opening, the turbo is pretty easily accessible where it is atm.

thank you very much!!!!!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346108-overboosting/#findComment-5574035
Share on other sites

ok guys some progress has been made but im not out of the woods yet.

if you look at the picture below it appears the gasket between turbo and dump was fowling up the wastegate opening, note that the actuator arm seems to be bent towards it a bit which would not have helped.

now after this photo i have resolved this problem and as far as i can tell it definately clears it now and can open the whole way, but still i am having the same problem so now i guess the question is,

has this been fouled with all that boost on it effected the integrity of the actuator ?

i dont have a pump to test it, and using my hand to move the actuator is very difficult in the position its in and i dont think its good for it anyway.

i have another stock actuator to replace this one, but would you believe the one on the stock turbo is a little bit different as the bottom of the actuator arm is just a hole, on this turbo the wastegate arm has the hole..

dump.jpg

Edited by ODessA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346108-overboosting/#findComment-5574970
Share on other sites

this turbo and ecu comes as a kit from blitz for a starlet, its tuned for it, and while japanese fuel is better than here, i dont see it causing this, i can put the stock one in to test.

this turbo isnt a whole lot bigger than stock, ive seen people run them on a stock ecu fine before, its only good for a little over 200hp, but thats plenty cause starlet weighs nothing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346108-overboosting/#findComment-5575301
Share on other sites

take the dump pipe off and see if there is any room for improvement at the wastegate hole, like can it be ground out 1mm or so to help?

we had a s13 that would boost creep to 21psi from 18psi, we found the cheap ebay manifold that was to suit a 38mm gate had a 29mm hole, we ground it out to 31mm and it completely fixed the issue,

if you do grind it out make sure you take the housing off the turbo 1st :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346108-overboosting/#findComment-5575323
Share on other sites

I've had this problem for ages in my rb25. I have tried everything, different actuators, a high flowed turbo, a split and bellmouth dump pipe, but nothing stopped the creep. The only thing that i could find that made and difference was by placing a 2.5" restriction plate at the end of my 3" exhaust. That allowed the car to hold a steady boost level all the way to redline. I can't explain why, found the idea from a few supras who had the same problem. I have a feeling its to do with the tune, as im running stock ecu with mods, but when i get it re flashed i'll just up the boost anyway and let it do what it wants

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346108-overboosting/#findComment-5576734
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...