Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I've searched the forums a bit and found that people are saying that it's hard to get an acccurate reading using a timing light on an r33 gtst!

I checked my base timing by using my timing light I have and found that it was showing 6 white marks past the orange one.

Does this really mean that my car's timing is advanced 30 degrees??? cos I've heard that timing is hard to check with a normal timing light on an r33 and that the readings that you get are double what it actually is???

That would mean my timing is 15 degrees which is correct. The car has been running for months and i've never had a problem on this timing setting so I have a feeling that it prob is actually 15 degrees. To be safe for the time being, my tuner retarded it, but that has robbed me of precious power and I think that the readings we are getting are wrong.

Can someone please help and shed some light on this!!!!

How can I get an accurate reading of my base timing???? I'm happy to take it somewhere and pay for them to check it if I have to!!

I need urgent help.

thanks

Hi Black 33,

First Qion what/how are you hooking the timing light up to read the ign puse ? As there are a couple ways of doing it !

I'm would be happy to help you in this matter in return for your vin number so my mate can get a water pump for his ser 2 RB25 in a R31 as we might of found today that the blocks are diff between ser 1 and 2

mincus

Well I am having a timing problem on my Series II motor. Mine always reads far advanced like 30 degree's. When I first got my car running I had the sensor almost fully advanced and it red 15 degreee's Car ran great! Then after a few days the car started to run slugish. I checked the timing and it was off the scale. I set it back to 15 degrees again. Now the sensor is in the middle of the range. When I set it to read 15 degrees the car runs very slow. With it set farther ahead it runs better. I turned my boost up to 10 psi (Everything stock except 3" turbo-back and HKS SSQ BOV) My car shoots flames between shifts. Is this nomral? I guess a S-AFC is needed?

two places to take timing from on series 1 (that I know of).

1. there is a loop on the back of the ignighter - this will give you double the actual timing, so if you see 30deg on the engine, its acutally 15 deg.

2. remove the cover off the coil packs, and take the signals from number 1 - this will give you the actual timing. A bit more accurate than method 1.

not sure if it is the same for series 2, but you can guarantee if you take the signal from no 1 coil pack it will be accurate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...