Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$33,000

Maybe intrested in swaps + cash

Fresh engine 2 events since rebuild aprox 5,000km

Car currently running 365awkw with over 1400nm toque

Current tune is for mid range power delivery will make 400kw on power tune.

Everything has been done that needs to be done and all parts are basically new or are new!

Car has current SA rego

Comes with lots spares and std parts like std exhaust system.

Car as been modified from standard by myself and I have been the first owner of the car in Australia.

Currently all stickers have been removed and side skirt (left) and front bumper are having some paint done.

Top competitor in legend of the lakes hill climb also took out the overall dyno challenge at autofest 2010 Mount Gambier.

Car has barley been driven since build and is going to waist. Car was built on the basis of doing hill climbs and some track work but never seen a track yet.

Engine

Arp main bolt’s

Arp head studs

Arp rod bolts

Tomei Metal head gasket

Tomei Metal intake gaskets

Tomei Metal exhaust gaskets

ATi 1000hp balancer

Trust Oil pump

Tomei oil restrictor

Eagle rods

CP pistons

ACL race bearing throughout

Trust sump

Gready under drive pullys

N1 water pump

Nismo thermo stat

SARD 800cc

Head ported and polished

Tomei poncams B

Tomei pro double valve springs

Tomei titanium valve retainers

Nismo fuel regulator

Silicon high temp water hose set

HKS twin spark ignition

Gready solid radiator hoses

Gready oil cooler/ filter relocation

Custom hard piping kit intake/cooler

CoolingPro Intercooler

Blitz dual bovs

Twin Z32 Air flow meters

PFC Pro version with launch control and ignition cut

Braided turbo oil and water lines

Yellow jackets coil packs

HKS cam gears

OBX split dumps

Std turbo manifolds with major porting

Garret -5 turbos

kokamoto race twin 3" pipes tuned length from dumps back

justjap circuit oil catch can into a secondary custom catch can

Apexi air filters

Custom 3 core alloy radiator

Custom sure tank with bosh 044

Drivetrain

Nismo Engine mounts

Nismo Gearbox mounts

custom cusco 30mm swaybars

project D rear cradle solid bushes

project D steering rack bushes

Twin place ORC 702 clutch

Nismo short shifter

Rear adj upper camber arms

Upper front adj camber arms

Hardline caster rods

Hicas lock out bar

Front Two peice slotted rotors

Slotted rear rotors

Yellow stuff pads all round

Project mu drift handbrake pads

Braded brake lines all round

Cusco brake stopper

Tein coilovers with full in cab control

Rear LSD shimmed

Interior

6 point molly bolt in cage with full padding wrap

Nismo 320 dash

Nismo Gear knob

Fire extinguisher

Quick release steering wheel hub

Momo race wheel

Defi Gauges Oil temp/ Water temp/ Boost bar

Led shift light

Greedy turbo timer

Profec b boost controller

Exteriour

Top secret carbon rear defuzer

F1 carbon mirrors

BeeR carbon rear spoiler

Top secret carbon bonnet

Top secret front splitter

Greedy cooling pannel

Tomei headlight air duct

Zigen 18x9.5 rims on 265x35x18 semi slicks advans

Spare sprint slicks dunlop 18x35x250 (hillclimbs)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346358-r33-gtr-1998-ser-3/
Share on other sites

Don't think it would be to hard,

change the exhaust to STD which comes with,

change afm's and ecu to STD for emissions which it comes with,

change bonnet comes with STD bonnet,

change spoiler blade from BeeR to STD blade which comes with it,

change mirrors to STD which come with,

take bolt in cage out,

umm that's about it and you should be ok has. About the only thing I don't have is the STD airbox but have everything else original from the car.

I am located in Melbourne but car is located back in my home town Penola in SA,

I have driven the car a total of about 5 times this year and has always been garaged under a cover.

The only reason the car lives there and not here is because i have no where to secure park it, on serious intrest im happy to drive it up to here to Melbourne or to Adelaide.

Also engine was built a year ago by Protek Automotive in Preston and last tune was done 3 months ago with a new HKS twin spark system.

Also this is a ser3 r33 gtr so it has the extra bits std,

tuffer gearbox

xeon headlight

red interiour inserts

dark carbon instumental pannels

n1 front bar intakes

this was the last year they where made 1998

Edited by Travis Trayhern
call or msg 0416250596

Hi, Travis

Very nice street and track car!! wish I came across your car earlier before I start building a full on GTR33 track car.got a collection of GTR 34, NUR, GTR33, Stagea RS260, RX7 S8 RZ etc,etc.may be we can work out a deal. I have a work shop and storage warehouse in Campbellfield and Altona for my toys.come and have a look. will call you on your mobile.

chers

Alex 0433878905

JAK Motorworks

21 Thornycroft St. Campbellfield Vic. 3061

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...