Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey for those running 19'' on there v, with 19x8.5 fronts do you have spacers on the wheel hub?

Hi mate,

Would you know what offset you getting? It's depends on the offset. Mine is 19x8.5 +5 at front and I don't need spacers as they sit very flush. I will need to roll the guards if I put spacers on and lower it.

One of my friend, xtc, had spacers on his 19 inch rims before he has 20 inch Volk GT-C. I don't know his 19 inch rims spec though.

Basically, 19x8.5 with low and negative offsets wouldn't need spacers, but higher offsets do if you want the rims to sit flush to the guards.

Good luck.

Edited by Victor.T

no idea of my offset but im running 19 x 10 on the back with no issues not sure on the fronts think they are the same or 19 x 9.5 but they come dam close to the suspension whilst allmost filling out the guard

I know that my 18 x 9.5 +20 track rims stick out a the front just a tiny bit

they are tenzo type m specs are 19x8.5 5x112/114.3 offset is +45 all around

any idea on what mm spacer i would need for fronts and rears?

Depends how close to the guards u want to b. R u lowered. My current rims are 8.5 front wid +35 offset. It sat inside the guards as soon as i dumped it on coils it sits way too inside and id need like a 38mm spacer to make it look guud again.

If u running stock height then id say a 20-25 mm spacer for the front.

I assume the rears are 9.5? in that case id say round the same.

stock 17'' size are - Front: 17"x7.5" +30mm offset and Rear: 17"x8" +33mm offset and they sit flush.

does that mean i need 15mm spacer for front and 12mm spacer for rear on the 19'' have now to sit flush?

by tyres on the 19's are 235/35 all round too ( i cant remeber the tyres on the 17's i had)

I wudnt say the stock rims sit flush bro, but to each is his own.

Best thing to do is put the wheels on and then measure and work out wat mm spacers u require based on distance to the guard.

Hope that helps

stock wheels are never flush.

people also have differing opinions on "flushness", width, offset, camber and tyre sizes will play an important part.

if you don't have camber arms, lowering your car will increase its negative camber.

you won't get anywhere near being flush with x8.5 +45, your main concern now is whether it will hit the front suspension arms. if the stock 17s are x7.5 +30, that's equivalent to x8.5 +42. so it should be fine

on a 19*8.5 +45, I'm gonna stick my neck out and say that you will need spacers especially if you have brembo brakes, but more for the aesthetic

i'm currently on 18" with 9.0 +30 fronts and they could use a 10mm spacer to sit flush (but I am running -1 camber)

hi guys just updating this thread for those keen to know what happened, i went to tempe tyres and got 30mm spacer for the front and 35mm for rears, sit perfectly now. they charged 50 a wheel which i was suprised since it was that cheap. also went to ozzy tyres they were charging 150 a wheel which i laughed at. anyways thanks for the help and answers.

hi guys just updating this thread for those keen to know what happened, i went to tempe tyres and got 30mm spacer for the front and 35mm for rears, sit perfectly now. they charged 50 a wheel which i was suprised since it was that cheap. also went to ozzy tyres they were charging 150 a wheel which i laughed at. anyways thanks for the help and answers.

FYI did you get slip on spacers or bolt on ones? The latter are more expensive and safer. Either way they are both illegal. Your insurance will be void if u happen to be involved in an accident and they find out u have spacers.

Food for thought.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...